Richoux

Little table lamps and gilded wall mirrors help to illustrate Richoux’s illustrious past as one of Picadilly’s places to be seen. Smack bang in the middle of town, it’s the sort of spot well-placed for hungry tourists exploring the nearby sights or a handy location for a luxurious working lunch.

The menu takes things back to basics with the starter section stuffed full of classics like French onion soup and prawn cocktail. The former is a hug in a bowl, rich and sweet with a pleasingly chunky cheese crouton crown. The prawn cocktail comes well chilled with plump prawns, a classic sauce and a good hit of smoky paprika. It’s not going to win any innovation awards but it’s also reassuring in its familiarity.

Mains are recommended by our efficient, earnest waiter. He helpfully cuts out the competition by backing the rib-eye steak. A good crust, a blushing centre and a healthy hit of seasoning help to ensure clean plates. A pile of salty fries, a well-made béarnaise and a rocket salad are the sort of sides you’d expect given the setting and they tick the box for a comfort food feed.

Desserts - it seems - are the restaurants strong suit. Which makes sense given its billed as a Patisserie and all day eatery. A puff of marshmallowy meringue surrounds a gateaux layered up with mascarpone and soft sponge. Elsewhere a light chocolate mousse is topped with a crowd of chocolate shavings and a bowl of frozen mixed berries is theatrically covered in hot, melted white chocolate tableside.

In fact, the puddings are so much the favourite on our visit we’d be tempted to return solely for sweets. The cocktails are well-made too, and there’s high quality tea on offer as well, which seems to us the recipe for a perfect afternoon.

Richoux, the London institution that comes with over 100 years of clout, has a new home in Piccadilly.

Despite its history, the Richoux of today is a contemporary dining experience in the custody of Jamie Butler and Lewis Spencer. The pair met in the kitchens at Moor Hall, a two Michelin star restaurant, and worked together at a series of Michelin-starred restaurants around the world. Now, they attempt to breathe life into Richoux by preparing classic dishes with carefully-sourced produce.

The restaurant preserves its heritage as a modern brasserie and iconic accompanying patisserie, serving up quintessential French dishes with a British twist. On the all-day menu, expect to see simple dishes like Mediterranean prawns with olive oil, fresh lemon juice and salt competing for your attention against staples such as French onion soup, sroque monsieur, and Welsh rarebit. Or if you're looking for something more filling, perhaps consider the grilled chicken paillard in a citrus gremolata with rocket and toasted almonds, or the salmon a la plancha with wild rice, artichokes, lemon and pickled cucumber.

Make sure to save room for dessert, however, because Chef Jamie Butler has prepared quite a selection. The patisserie is loaded with his signature Cruffins: a cross between a croissant and a muffin, these pastries come in classic flavours like vanilla bean and raspberry, or more exotic choices such as banana creme, passion fruit, or sea salt and caramelised white chocolate custard.

The interior of the restaurant mimics its cuisine and is also inspired by the grand brasseries in Paris. The main dining room features golden fixtures and art-deco touches, and leads you to an elegant bar in the back. Whether you begin or end your night with a Richoux cocktail in hand, the restaurant is sure to call you back to a classic French aesthetic and dining experience.