Restaurant Story

Tom Sellers gained a reputation as something of an enfant terrible when he opened his first solo venture, Restaurant Story, at the age of 26 in 2013; now he’s re-opened it with a refurb after a six-week closure. The whole place feels more grown-up; the stark Scandinavian look of the glass-walled room (Sellers spent a year at Noma in 2011) has been softened with white tablecloths and sculptures, while the rather precious ‘story’ elements, such as guests being asked to bring a book to leave behind, have thankfully been pulped.

There’s no menu as such; guests are asked for any likes or dislikes before a procession of tasting-menu size dishes arrive, although they are likely to include story classics such as ‘Storeos’ – a savoury spin on an Oreo cookie filled with cheese – and Sellers’ signature dish of bread with dripping, in which a beef-fat candle lit at the table melts to become a dipping sauce for sour dough.

But it’s not all about the visual gags. Sublime turbot, Champagne and sea herbs, and chicken with morels and lettuce, bear witness to Sellers’ rock-solid training with some of London’s most famous chefs, while oscietra caviar, veal sweetbread and turnip showcased superb ingredients with every mouthful.

Even diners who have an allergic reaction to tasting menus are likely to be won over by the joy and invention on show here, although what elevated the meal for us from high-end rivals was the relaxed service led by witty and down-to-earth maitr’d Joe Paulinski who, for all his good humour, learnt his trade at the very serious Per Se. It's not cheap (as expected at a two Michelin starred gaffe), but this is a Story that now knows how to put a smile on its customers’ faces, and if you haven’t returned since it first opened, it more than merits a re-visit.

Originally opened in 2013, Restaurant Story is the brainchild of wunderkind chef Tom Sellers, who took the restaurant world by storm with his innovative, high-concept dishes, bagging a Michelin star just five months after opening its doors.

The concept of Restaurant Story is to offer a fine-dining experience that is a feast for the eyes as much as it is for the taste buds, as evidenced by some of Sellers’ previous signature dishes - the beef dripping candle, for example, which is lit at the table and melts to become a dipping sauce for sourdough bread. Despite the initial success of his restaurant, Sellers also developed a reputation for being somewhat difficult - he famously launched an online tirade against former Evening Standard restaurant critic Fay Maschler after she wrote a lukewarm review of his Restaurant Ours concept.

It seems that Sellers has grown up since then though and so has the restaurant that first made his name. In 2018, Restaurant Story underwent an extensive refurbishment, which saw more luxurious tables and seating being added to the dining room, as well as the addition of a feature ceiling showcasing an installation of swallows taking flight. Sellers has also ditched the traditional a la carte format, instead offering guests a blind tasting menu (you will have time to warn your waiter of any dislikes or allergies). Restaurant Story reopened again in January 2024 after another refurbishment. 

Longtime fans of Restaurant Story will be glad to know that several of the signature dishes remain, which are served alongside seasonally inspired plates. It seems all of Sellers’ efforts have paid off, because Restaurant Story was awarded a second Michelin star in 2021. Prices are as high as you would expect in a place like this, but the relaxed, unstuffy service will help to soften the blow of the bill.