Beloved of chilli fiends, this Chinatown stalwart continues to fly the flag for potent Szechuan cooking. Our advice is to sidestep the handful of Cantonese dishes & head for spicier stuff, such as poached lamb in a broth bobbing with tiny dried chillis, or one of the many souped-up presentations of offal. Service in the shiny basement dining room may be patchy, but the feed-an-army portions go a long way towards making up for it. Red Chilli is now disseminating the heat at 403-419 Oxford Road in the heart of university district, & there are further branches in Yorkshire & Lancashire.