Convivial and inexpensive, O’s has been serving Thai food to hungry north-Londoners for nearly two decades, maintaining its huge popularity (empty seats are rare) despite changing hands in early 2014. It’s a relaxed spot, with simple wooden furniture and white walls where blackboards display seafood specials. To start, pork skewers were perfectly cooked in a light, flavourful marinade, and Thai-style wontons hid sweet, tender meat under their crisp wrappers. Main courses (mostly rice and noodle dishes) are packed with fresh vegetables and herbs; plump king prawns, for instance, arrive with large flat noodles in a wonderfully spicy sauce. We can also recommend the chicken gaeng ped red curry, its peppery heat pleasingly balanced by sweet coconut cream. Quench your thirst with reasonably priced wines, lager or even cocktails. A four-course evening set menu for £16.95 and friendly, attentive staff add to what is a great neighbourhood restaurant.