The team behind Maxwell’s in Covent Garden are now overseeing this all-day British brasserie, which takes up two floors of a former Muriel’s Kitchen site. The industrial-chic interiors (exposed brick, pendant lights) could have left the space cold, but low lighting, horseshoe booths and burnt orange chairs cosy things up.
The kitchen turns out a run of classic European dishes, alongside ones that cater to current restaurant trends: note the flecks of truffle which appear across the menu, generously sprinkled on a hearty mac ‘n’ cheese, or dusted over pillowy pellets of gnocchi, finished off with butternut squash and tenderstem broccoli. There’s also an impressive number of plant-based dishes available, alongside the more traditional brasserie fare of steak frites and stacked burgers.
Not everything sang on our visit, with a plate of burrata a touch too sour, and a dessert of vegan chocolate orange mousse tasting neither of chocolate nor orange. We liked the bar, though, which mixes quirky cocktails like the vodka and pear-based Regina Fong, served in a glittering disco ball. Friendly staff are another plus, as too a handful of pavement tables for a spot of Soho people watching.