Charm and charisma have earned this well-established Italian a dedicated following over the years. All the characteristics of an old-time trattoria are here in spades – big tablecloths, flowers and an elegant Italian host of a certain age. Look for innovation elsewhere, but be prepared to fall in love with the old classics all over again. Don’t get fazed by the odd names for some dishes (carpaccio Lucibello, linguine alla Jane, frilly malfadine Susanna York etc); instead enjoy the consistently tasty food – perhaps bresaola of wild boar with mozzarella followed by seafood risotto, spinach and ricotta agnolotti with walnut sauce or veal escalopes with rosemary and garlic. After that, a wonderfully old-fashioned dessert trolley awaits – trundled along by obliging staff with plenty of years under their collective belts. Numero Uno isn’t the cheapest or busiest Italian venue on Northcote Road, but it remains one of the best.