Xavier Rousset is a hot name on the London wine scene, with a string of successful, wine-leaning restaurants behind him. Has he struck gold again?
![Blandford Comptoir restaurant bar London Marylebone](https://cdn.squaremeal.co.uk/articles/restaurants/news/blandfordcomptoir2016food2web.jpg)
In 2002 at the age of 23, Xavier Rousset became the world’s youngest Master Sommelier: just one highlight on a sparkling CV that includes a stint at
Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons. Rousset caused shock waves last year when he quit Michelin-starred
Texture and
28°-50° – the famous duo he founded with chef Agnar Sverrisson – so
Blandford Comptoir marks his return to the game, and we reckon it’s a winner.
![Blandford Comptoir London Marylebone restaurant bar Xavier Rousset](https://cdn.squaremeal.co.uk/articles/restaurants/news/blandfordcomptoir2016interior3webwineshelf.jpg)
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Friendly staff and a creative Mediterranean menu make this casual neighbourbood joint immediately appealing, and – as you’d hope – its wine list is an oenophile’s delight. Marble-topped tables and a smart counter (reserved for walk-ins) give a classic feel to the small dining room that’s brought bang up-to-date with its petrol-blues and pristine tiling. The menu by chef Ben Mellor (also ex-28°-50°) focuses on prime ingredients. Sections are headed ‘Fish’, ‘Vegetable’ and so on. Most dishes are available in starter or main-course sizes, so you can choose several small plates to share or the traditional three courses.
![Blandford Comptoir restaurant bar London Marylebone](https://cdn.squaremeal.co.uk/articles/restaurants/news/blandfordcomptoir2016food12courgetteweb.jpg)
We began with thin slivers of raw lamb in a fresh Amalfi lemon and mint dressing, punctuated by intense bursts of caper: the carefully layered flavours showing deft culinary skill. A heartier dish of tender grilled octopus and potatoes epitomised the Med on a plate, bolstered by rich olives and the kind of tomatoes you usually only find in sunny markets on foreign holidays. Closer to home, plump scallops with a light pea velouté and sweet beans reminded us of an English summer garden.
![Blandford Comptoir restaurant bar London Marylebone](https://cdn.squaremeal.co.uk/articles/restaurants/news/blandfordcomptoir2016food13chickenweb.jpg)
We can also recommend the quail, which comes in a rich jus balanced by the lighter texture of a truffle and chicken boudin – the perfect match for a surprisingly silky Côtes du Rhône from Rousset’s list. And what a list: over 50 Champagnes, 20 interesting by-the-glass choices and knock-out older bottles will see wine-lovers flocking here; monthly tastings are run, allowing regulars to help pick new wines. Marylebone’s bon viveurs have a new reason to celebrate.
![Blandford Comptoir restaurant bar London Marylebone](https://cdn.squaremeal.co.uk/articles/restaurants/news/blandfordcomptoir2016food9carpaccioweb.jpg)
![Blandford Comptoir London Marylebone restaurant bar Xavier Rousset](https://cdn.squaremeal.co.uk/articles/restaurants/news/blandfordcomptoir2016interior7webdrinks.jpg)
Wine guide
Xavier Rousset’s reputation rests secure with this carefully curated list, which features some brilliant choices for both wine pros and novices. Champagne and Madeira are highlights, along with a fine-wine section packed with real gems. Best Buy: Le Laouzil St-Chinian 2014, Domaine Thierry Navarre, Languedoc-Roussillon, France; £35.
Find out more and book a table at Blandford Comptoir here
![Blandford Comptoir restaurant bar London Marylebone](https://cdn.squaremeal.co.uk/articles/restaurants/news/blandfordcomptoir2016food8meatweb.jpg)
This article was published 10 June 2016