Naifs

It may be just a few minutes away from Peckham High Street, but Naïfs feels in a world of its own. Surrounded by residential houses, the place has a neighbourly warmth that hits you as soon as you step inside. It may only be a small space, with tables packed closely together, but Anne, Tom and the team have created a real family affair that manages to feel cosy, not crammed. London’s bistro-dining scene is hardly lacking, but Naïfs offers a wholesome plant-based alternative, showcasing variety and creativity across its dishes. 

We started with the signature Naïfs’ pate – rich and creamy with an almost meat-like texture that makes it hard to believe it's made of lentils. The natural sweetness of fig jam with salty cornichon brings everything together, on chunky slabs of sourdough straight from TOAD Bakery.  

The winter set menu arrives all together - a sharing selection of four dishes. While nothing here stands out on its own, it all feels very fresh, retaining an earthiness in each bite. It's simple yet effective. The aubergine is nicely charred, soft and sweet, emboldened with crispy onions and a light, fresh carrot romesco which gives the dish a nice base. Things here are kept simple, leaning on quality ingredients, but there are dishes that show some creativity too. A radicchio and lentil salad highlights an unusual combination of ingredients uniting tomatoes with sunchoke crisps and a garlic and tofu sauce and is an overall hit.   

Desserts are not to be skipped. A chocolate mousse with yuzu curd creates that playful balance between rich chocolate and bitter citrus, whilst the rhubarb and apple pie is hard to put down. 

Hospitality here is a highlight. Anne’s passion shines through as she talks through the set menu while Max’s expert recommendations for cocktails and wines ensure seamless pairings with the food. A Paper Plane cocktail (a blend of Amer Picon, bourbon, angostura bitters, demerara syrup and lemon) was light and spiced, setting the tone, whilst a homemade sloe-gin based drink had a real earthy undertone which perfectly matched the menu.  

A delightful evening out for vegans and non-vegans alike, we can see why Naïfs is starting to build a name for itself.   

This vegetarian bistro in Peckham comes from business and real-life partners Tom Heale and Anne Stokes, the former of whom used to be the sous chef at upmarket vegetarian restaurant Vanilla Black in Holborn.

Naif’s is a family affair, with Heale acting as head chef and working alongside his brother Finn. The drink offering meanwhile, is overseen by Heale’s other brother Max, while Stokes (who used to work at Noble Rot) looks after the front of house side of things.

Naif is the French word for naïve but the menu here demonstrates the experience of everyone involved in the project. The menu changes seasonally, but on your visit you might come across dishes such as potato rosti with smoked apple, mustard and cheese, or koji-roasted celeriac with tomato salsa. For dessert, you can expect sweet treats such as an almond and barley ice cream sandwich served with fennel, caramel and blackberries.

To pair with your desserts or to enjoy post-dinner, there is a selection of natural and biodynamic wines, with bottles being brought in from suppliers such as Les Caves de Pyrène, Modal Wine and Gergovie. Diners who aren’t in the mood for wine can choose instead from a selection of ales and lagers, sourced from local Peckham brewer, the Brick Brewery.

Naif’s is the latest in a long line of trendy restaurants to open their doors in Peckham, an area of London that has seen significant regeneration in recent years. Well-known names in the area include rooftop bar Frank’s Café, European small plates restaurant Levan (from the team behind much-loved Salon in Brixton) and casual Thai spot The Begging Bowl.

Naif’s is on the former site of Aside, a casual restaurant which served a seasonally changing menu of sharing plates and closed its doors permanently in the spring of 2019.