Formerly Tajima-tei, this affable Japanese restaurant has now adopted the name of its parent group, Mugen Holdings – although nothing else has changed. Located just a stroll from Farringdon station and spread over two floors, the interior is a mix of dark wood panelling and traditional artefacts overseen by a brigade of ever-courteous staff.
The kitchen’s repertoire covers everything from hot and cold appetisers (marinated octopus and mackerel ‘sunomono’ with sweet vinegar, say), to kushiyaki skewers, grilled black cod with yuzu miso and Wagyu beef shabu-shabu hotpots. Also expect a decent showing of sushi and sashimi, special Japanese curries (made to the owner’s recipe) and a few more off-piste crossover ideas such as deep-fried mozzarella in Japanese stock or grilled tofu with cod-roe mayo and cheese topping.
Lunch is a wide-ranging offer, taking in bento boxes, curries and noodles as well as ‘valued combination sets’ such as chicken teriyaki and mixed tempura with rice and miso soup, while the drinks list naturally includes a fine selection of saké. Mugen also has a takeaway shop at 61 Cowcross Street, EC1M 6BP.