Fronted by Marco Pierre White, Mr White’s is yet another homage to the on-trend chophouse concept. While its outlets in London and Manchester feature several obvious nods to hipsterdom (think exposed brickwork and metal piping), these contrast awkwardly with the black-and-white wall-mounted photos of MPW himself.
Sadly, not only was there a palpable lack of atmosphere when we visited the London outpost, but also little evidence of the culinary consistency we might have expected from a kitchen overseen by such a gastronomic luminary. That said, our starters showed plenty of promise: devilled whitebait offered a pleasantly spicy kick, and a crab dish not only tasted wonderfully fresh but was inventively presented too. However, mains and desserts were more disappointing: both our grilled ribeye and salmon steak were cooked as requested, but their accompanying sauces were unpleasant to taste, while a chilled rice pudding and basil-infused lemon posset had a rubbery consistency.
The wine list is uninspiring, and prices appear to be out of sync with the quality of the food and drink on offer. Apparently, locals and nearby office workers like the venues and they do fill up at weekends, although we’re yet to be convinced.