Mayha

Mayha was a big hit in native Lebanon, but the catastrophic Beirut explosion of 2020 left them without a home and the diminutive omakase counter has since upped sticks and moved to London. It has picked a pretty fancy bit of the capital too - a dapper site on Marylebone's Chiltern Street no less. The jet black front and frosted windows give Mayha an air of mystery, and someone has painted a white rabbit on the manhole cover outside. It’s as close as Mayha gets to a sign - a harbinger for the otherworldly morsels found within.

By design, Mayha is cosy and intimate - an 11-seat omakase counter curves gently around the room, and an organic light installation twists and turns overhead like a sprawling forest canopy. Though impressive, it doesn’t quite mask the industrial ceiling above, like a glitch in the dream that reminds you you’re awake. The eclectic soundtrack can be a little discombobulating too, dancing from organic house to Nessun Dorma in the blink of an eye.

Our focus turns back to the counter where chefs Yuichi Nakaya and Jurek Wasio are turning out some astonishing, thoughtful Japanese dishes. A hot clam broth helps to usher the cold from our bones before we dive into fresh sea urchin with radish, meaty Cornish scallop with caviar, and chawanmushi with mushroom mousse, truffle and lobster. Quality of ingredients is paramount here - the langoustine arrives from Scotland by night train to ensure it is still fresh when it reaches the restaurant. All that effort really shines through in the final product and the highlight for us is the sushi course - a series of stunning handmade nigiri, from seared red mullet and fresh langoustine to blue fin tuna with truffle, each brushed with Nakaya’s magical nikiri before being placed in front of you.

The sake selection is bang on too, and delivered by wonderful, friendly staff. Price is so often the point of debate; even by London standards Mayha is not cheap, but omakase is subjective - some will value this style of dining and some will not. For our money, we’d gladly take another trip down the rabbit hole.

Mayha is a Japanese omakase restaurant in Marylebone, an intimate form of dining in which guests leave the decision-making to the chefs. As such, a daily-changing menu lies at the heart of the experience, rooted in technique and using the very best seasonal ingredients. This isn't Mayha’s first rodeo though, having made its initial debut in Beirut, although this London restaurant is the first to open in the UK. The founders hail from Lebanon and also co-own the group Nothing But Love, which lays claim to 10 established food brands and restaurants.   

The two-floor site has been designed by Beirut-based studio MARIAGROUP and offers a distinct look and feel on each floor. The ground level space is home to an intimate, curved stone counter where guests can interact with the chefs while they prepare their tasting menu. Central to this space is a bespoke light installation suspended above the counter, which has been custom-crafted in Lebanon and made using traditional Japanese handmade methods.  

A wrought-iron spiral staircase, which has been restored and hand-painted, leads guests to the raw bar and secluded courtyard downstairs. Here, guests can discover hand-poured Blatt Chaya cement tiles which have been shipped from Lebanon, and lie in contrast to the building’s original brickwork. The real talking point, though, is the scorched timber bar which is overseen by a team fluent in the art of Japanese bartending and where guests can enjoy pre and post-dinner drinks, or items from the raw bar menu.  

At the helm of the kitchen are head chefs Jurek Wasio and Yuichi Nakaya, who began working together at Mayha Beirut before relocating to London. Together they have crafted a menu using meticulously-sourced seasonal ingredients from a range of local and Japanese suppliers, the latter providing the finest seafood and specialty produce. Accompanying the menu is a selection of exceptional sakes, rare spirits, fine wines and niche beers.