As the third branch in the M Restaurants group, we expected nothing less than the style and glamour of the other locations, and M Canary Wharf didn’t let us down on that front. Floor to ceiling glass offers tremendous views of Canary Wharf and the City on either side - views which we admired with a glass of Mirabeau, warm, crusty mini baguettes and olive tapenade.
It didn’t take long for the self labelled ‘gastro-playground’ to show its lively side, with a starter of Wagyu tartare arriving in a smoke-filled dome. In competition with such extravagance, a simple Scotch egg held its own thanks to delicate wagyu, a crispy coating, and a rich, smoked ketchup.
Known for its award-winning grill section, we headed straight for an on the bone sirloin steak as well as the black gnocchi. While beautifully cooked, the steak fell short of perfection due to the beef dripping jus - slightly too rich and salty for a liberal pouring. Sides of ratatouille and broccoli with a chilli brittle brought impressive, bold flavours but the star of the show was the 15 hour Wagyu Parmesan chips. Producing a crunch probably heard from the other side of the restaurant and finished with a table-side grating of Parmesan, these are certainly worth the 15 hour prep.
The playful previous dishes left us eager for dessert which consisted of a passion fruit cheesecake and the restaurant’s take on a Snickers bar; although the cheesecake was refreshing and pleasant it was easily overshadowed. Thick, gooey nougat comes topped with nuts, smooth chocolate mousse and a thin, glistening layer of chocolate. Elegant and indulgent, a scoop of dulce ice cream cut through the richness and cocoa-dusted nuts delivered on their promise of a satisfying crunch.
If you want to feel like royalty, M Canary Wharf is the place to go - magnificent views, stylish surroundings and top-quality dishes served by staff who will go above and beyond to make your night perfect.