Lolo

This all-day concept from the ‘King of Tapas’ Jose Pizarro feels like a circular moment for the chef. ‘Lolo’ is a reference to his middle name and takes his portfolio of restaurants on Bermondsey Street to a grand total of three, joining the chef's two other eponymous ventures Jose and Pizarro. This more casual offering is rooted in warmth and conviviality, which means you can enjoy everything from morning pastries to steak and cheese sandwiches to elegant plates of carpaccio at all hours of the day – there are no rules.

Granted, it would be a gorgeous place to stop by for your morning croissant. The space is embellished in warm tones of terracotta, stone and dusty pinks, with shimmering tiles and beautiful artworks from the likes of Tracy Emin and Norman Ackroyd on the walls. Come evening, all those warm tones are illuminated by soft, gold lighting. Even if you only pop your head in for a drink and an empanada, Lolo will leave a lasting impression.

One of the best single bites we ate all evening was a gratifyingly savoury devilled egg draped in a single salty anchovy. We recommend you order a couple of these while you work out the menu, which might seem a little confusing at first. Omelettes, crudos, sharing boards and various small and large plates each have their own section, and you’re invited to pick and choose according to your hunger levels and general mood. We hopped from gnarly Iberian pork ribs to a delicate tuna and peach tartare, to cockles ‘los peperetes’ (in a tin) served with heavily charred bread. All are disarmingly simple, but very good, and don’t distract from the quality of ingredients. Prices do feel steep at times, like £36 for a tin of cockles, but the beauty of this menu is that it’s yours to do as you please with. There’s an egg and bacon sandwich with pineapple ketchup for a tenner, for example.

The wine list is concise but well-curated and starts at £6.50 for a delicious glass of rioja. Tables are predominantly for two, so pick a mate (or date) and pull up a stool. Lolo is a lovely place to while away a few hours.

Fresh off receiving the Spanish equivalent of a knighthood from King Felipe of Spain, the Extremadura-born London chef-restauranteur Jose Pizarro opens up Lolo, a new all-day casual dining concept in Bermondsey.

Pizarro’s fifth restaurant in London and his third in the south-east London neighbourhood, Lolo is inspired by the communal and convivial nature of Spanish dining (and especially Barcelona and Andalucia), and the interiors are warm and inviting, decked out in soft cream and pink tones. Like the chef’s eponymous tapas bar Jose, there’s a focus here on the finest produce, and simplicity and quality above all - many of Pizarro’s suppliers for Lolo are long-time friends in Spain and in the UK, which he says ‘reflects his love for both nations alike’.

The menu here is more casual than either Jose or Pizarro’s previous self-titled Bermondsey outpost Pizarro Restaurant, and the range of elevated sandwiches is surely a highlight. Choose from mouth-watering options like the Lolo de Ternera (beef, confit green peppers and melted cheese) or the Bikini (cheese, Iberian ham and truffle), or look elsewhere on the menu for salmon cured in sherry or salt cod with roasted fennel, chilli, and orange. Lolo will also be Pizarro’s first attempt at a breakfast restaurant - items include pastries, figs with honey ice-cream, and a range of devilled eggs (don’t miss the variant paired with ground sobrasada sausage).

By night, Lolo transforms from a breezy neighbourhood cafe into a more intimate and lowlit wine and cocktail bar experience. A list of Bloody Marys has been curated to pair with the food items, while an imaginative wine list explores bottles from across the Mediterranean region.