Lilienblum

Just a few steps from Old Street station, Lilienblum’s neon yellow signage immediately catches the eye. The building's external industrial charm, with brick facade, expansive windows and black fixtures, hints at a minimalist interior, but as soon as the doors swing open, you’re enveloped in a warm, home-like ambiance, courtesy of candlelit tables, soft ceiling spotlights and a friendly welcome from staff.

The room is spacious, but it manages to maintain an intimate atmosphere, with a mix of small and larger tables scattered around and furniture in soothing pastel shades. What adds to its sense of continuity are the many windows that open to an internal courtyard; a peaceful, secluded spot for an al fresco meal.

But the elegant marble counter is what immediately catches the eye, and this is where our journey to Israel begins. A seat at the counter is like being invited for dinner at a friend’s house; sipping on a white fruity wine from South of France as chefs reach for ingredients from the counter. Cherry tomatoes, aubergines and Amalfi lemons sit side-by-side on the counter, as if a Mediterranean vegetable garden has just blossomed.

Lilienblum's menu keeps things fun, with dishes described as if the chef is talking to a friend. When it comes to presentation, the colourful ingredients speak for themselves. A dish of smoked aubergine on glossy tomato gazpacho is a clear example of the freshness and visual appeal Lilienblum brings to the table.

Simple pleasures like swishing tomato and onion focaccia through a vibrant garlicky hummus are elevated by the ingredients and surroundings. A bowl of spelt, clams and dill was so invigorating you could almost feel a sea breeze through the restaurant.

A tray of dessert options presented us with tough choices, but in the end, it was a sweet, creamy chocolate mousse that stole our hearts. Despite the sometimes confusing, irreverent nature of the menu, Lilienblum’s recipe for success is incredibly simple - quality ingredients, great cooking, and genuine service.

Renowned Israeli chef Eyal Shani, known for his ability to transform simple ingredients into refined, modern Israeli food, takes the helm at Lilienblum. Lilienblum joins Miznon sites at Soho and Notting Hill, becoming Shani's third restaurant in London (he owns around 30 restaurants worldwide). It's the perfect fusion of Miznon's street-style food and HaSalon's modern family-style cuisine.

The space is roomy and colourful, featuring a gentle pastel-shaded colour palette and plenty of foliage. A marble counter and bar forms the centre of the restaurant, and diners can choose a front-row seat at the counter or one of many tables spaced around the restaurant. The dining room can accommodate a good crowd, with more than 90 guests enjoying both indoor and outdoor seating in the courtyard. 

As is often the case with Shani's menus, the menu itself is irreverently assembled - instead of simple dish descriptions, Shani likes to use unique, personal descriptions of what the guest can expect. Sometimes he uses descriptions that keep you guessing, for example, a plate of sashimi is described on the menu as 'I trained for years to cut Hamachi sashimi like that...' and there are other dishes such as, 'Green Fields an abundance of salad brightened with Chardonnay and EVOO' and 'asparagus exemplary arranged inside a paper envelope'. In general, dishes at Lilienblum revolve around fresh ingredients and simple cooking - chefs will take ingredients directly from the counter to cook dishes during service.

There's plenty for vegetarians on the menu - Shani is famously obsessed with tomatoes, for example, and hummus is an ever-present on his menus - but meat eaters are also blessed with options, including lamb chops with salat aravi, hummus with lamb ragu, and large Hereford ribeye steaks, sharable between two or four people. 

The dessert section features simple but pleasing puddings, including chocolate mousse with whipped cream and salted butter cookie, pistachio cake and creme caramel.