To the north of Wandsworth Common, a stone’s throw from Trinity Road, lies a castle. No, we’re not exaggerating; it’s a real-life French-style chateau, turrets and all. Once an orphanage and later an outpost of the intelligence services during the world wars, this remarkable example of neo-Gothic architecture – in the most unexpected of locations – is steeped in rich history. Proprietor Mark Justin is regularly on hand to impart juicy tales of ghosts, spies and celebrities as you tuck into a glass of something strong in Le Gothique’s cosy pub-style bar.
In the summer months the venue is a popular spot for weddings, with the enclosed courtyard providing a suntrap for alfresco ceremonies that feel a million miles from the hustle and bustle of the city. For the remainder of the year the restaurant serves an affordable and popular lunch menu for the building’s office workers and art students who occupy the surrounding rooms, and in the evening an à la carte menu of French bistro classics.
The mezzanine restaurant looks a little dated and is a little dark, but warm, friendly service makes up for it. We started with king prawns, flambéed with Pernod, garlic and shallots, and rillettes de canard, a coarse duck pâté served with a Bramley apple and raisin chutney – both no less enjoyable for being so simple.
Next, gnocchi filled with a silky pumpkin velouté – a nod to the chef’s time spent working under Antonio Carluccio – and sea bass with green beans, crushed new potatoes and salsa verde. The former was rich and comforting and the latter well seasoned and perfectly cooked, albeit somewhat rustic in its presentation.
Desserts are freshly made on the day and the tarte aux poires is a particular highlight. No soggy bottom here –short, buttery pastry and a delicious frangipane and pear filling topped with a rich vanilla ice cream.
For those who like a helping of history with their dinner, Le Gothique is worth a visit if for no better reason than to marvel at the spectacular Grade II (star) listed building itself. Plus free off-road parking is an added bonus.