L'Atelier Robuchon

Four years after Joel Robuchon’s Michelin-starred restaurant closed in Covent Garden and L’Atelier Robuchon is truly back in business. Occupying a lavish, art-deco dining room on Clarges Street in Mayfair, this recoupment of the brand has opened with certifiable aplomb. The large space is richly decorated in tones of gold and crimson, while a beautiful backlit cocktail bar greets guests upon entry. It’s a long room, and dappled marble countertops function as a barrier between the open kitchen and the guests, which makes for fun viewing as we watch the brigade of chefs work studiously away over plates of French haute cuisine.  

If it wasn’t already clear that this is a special occasion sort of place, the prices bring that fact into stark reality. Our starter, albeit one of the more expensive items on the menu, is a painstaking £43. It’s faultless though: a glorious combination of langoustine ravioli steeped in a mouth-coatingly rich foie gras sauce, then finished with shavings of black truffle. Even the breadbasket is a triumph, featuring five different types of artisan bread, from crusty gruyere-filled rolls to flaky croissant buns.  

Everything we ate reconfirmed the brilliance of the Robuchon name. A velvet-soft piece of caramelised black cod was paired with a viscose, addictively sweet Malabar pepper sauce. Robuchon’s world-famous mash, or pomme puree, is plonked on the table as an obligatory side, practically glistening with butter. The finale comes in the form of a magnificent cheese trolley, which is wheeled to our table on a piece of marble, then paired with more of its exemplary bread rolls and sweet fig jam. 

We visited not long after opening and there was a slight sense that the staff were a little rushed off their feet, although everyone is superbly gracious and never without a smile. If you have the cash, this prestigious edition to Mayfair’s restaurant scene is undoubtedly a good way to spend it.  

L’Atelier Robuchon is the latest restaurant from the acclaimed Joël Robuchon International group, who have given the Mayfair restaurant - formerly Le Comptoir Robuchon - an exciting facelift, helmed by executive chef Andrea Cofini who has been working for the brand for a decade. 

The restaurant continues the legacy of the late, great Joël Robuchon, who remains widely regarded as one of the most acclaimed chefs ever (his restaurants are known for their many Michelin stars). The menu maintains a sense of continuity and showcases plenty of signature Robuchon dishes, including his famous purée de pomme de terre (a mashed potato so famous it is served by many other chefs around the world), the sea bream carpaccio or quail with foie gras, this is the place. 

Another much-loved feature from the existing Robuchon world include the dessert trolley. Boasting a sophisticated marble-topped display, it's a show-stopping way to highlight sweet treats from the kitchen including fresh á la minute Madeleines and renowned patisserie classics. If pudding isn't your thing, though, don't worry, as the cheese trolley won't be far behind with its daily-changing rotation of southern French and Italian cheeses.

In terms of the space, expect an elevated design scheme that shocks and delights with a colour palette of scarlet and monochrome, coupled with intimate booths and atmospheric lighting. And, with a setting like that, it's no wonder that the team decided to lean into the ambience and host a variety of live music nights throughout the week, and late-night DJs at the weekend.

And, whether you're visiting L’Atelier Robuchon for a special occasion or not, don't forget to check out the Champagne list. Said to be the pride and joy of head sommelier Neomie Favrat, it features almost exclusively small producers and an unusually large wine-by-the-glass selection. There's also plenty of red, white and rose bottles on offer, sourced from across France, too.