Lahpet West End

We find it troubling when people say they love Asian food, because to cram the diversity of the continent’s cuisine under a single bracket is to do it a huge injustice. Nowhere is this clearer than when visiting Burmese restaurant Lahpet’s second site in Covent Garden, which shone a startling spotlight upon the humbling realisation that we, in fact, know very little about the breadth and nuances of Asian cuisine.  

Sure, there are recognisable flavours on the menu: garlic, chilli, lime and ginger play prominent roles. But then fermented tea leaves and toasted chickpea flour lead the diner into uncharted territory, both of which are key players in one of the dishes it does best: salads. The kitchen team at Lahpet demonstrates a rich understanding of how texture plays into the satisfaction-element of food, and its salads are unlike any leafy concoction we’ve ever tried before. Its signature tea leaf salad (Lahpet Thok) is sweet-meets-sour with a kind of funky element running underneath, and each bite is fantastically crunchy with crushed peanuts, sesame seeds and dried shrimp.  

The restaurant even makes its own unique tofu from chickpea flour, which is deep fried and served with a lip-smacking tamarind dip. Meanwhile, a pan-fried piece of hake seems straightforward enough, but when served with a crisp cassava fritter and a velvety curried coconut sauce, it throws us out of whack again – in a good way. The plates can easily be shared and our jovial waiter didn’t rush us as we worked through each dish.  

We ordered tea to wash it all down with (Lahpet means ‘tea’, after all), but we’re told the cocktails are just as unique as the food. You’ll pay £15-20 for a main course, and up to a tenner for starters, so it’s not cheap, but not crazy either. To eat at Lahpet goes beyond a great meal though – it’s an education in the food of Burma, and for that we’re happy to pay our dues.

Lahpet West End is the second site of Lahpet, a Burmese restaurant which started as a stall in Maltby Street Market before its first permanent branch opened in Shoreditch. Dan Anton and Zaw Mahesh once again offer a modern twist on traditional Burmese dishes, alongside other plates inspired by the street food of Myanmar. The country's varied cuisine is in part influenced by the countries it borders, including Thailand, China and India. Expect punchy flavours from ingredients like lemongrass and fermented fish paste, unfussy presentation and plenty of choices.

Lahpet West End spans two floors with a heated terrace upstairs and a small courtyard at the front. Seating varies from intimate booths to larger long tables perfect for sharing. This warm, relaxed space full of plants and pickling jars is the perfect setting to enjoy exciting food and drink creations. There is also a bar well-suited to pre or post-dinner drinks. Equidistant from Leicester Square and Covent Garden tube stations, this restaurant is located in the hospitality epicentre of the capital.

This second site provides the same beloved classics as the first, including coconut noodles with chicken, tea leaf salad, and mohinga (Myanmar's national dish, a catfish and lemongrass noodle chowder). However, the addition of a large robata grill offers new delights, such as roasted pork belly with bamboo shoots and Rakhine fish soup, made with sea bream, squid and fermented fish paste. Other newcomers include Shan fish and rice, a street food dish made with sea bream, rice, peanuts and chives. The jars lining the walls contain regional pickles like the Shan pickle, made with choy sum, shallots, chilli, fennel seeds and rice. 

The cocktail menu includes exciting blends like a turmeric and Zuzu sour, kumquat spritz and the signature Lahpet Margarita. Lahpet West End has a new wine list from Liberty Wines and craft beers are also available.