A minimalist blend of Japanese blond wood and lattice screens, Kiku’s two-tier dining room puts on two very different faces. By day, business lunchers pile in for well-regarded set deals that require a modest outlay and half an hour of your time. The Kiku ‘special’ is a top shout, offering mixed tempura, miso soup, sushi and teriyaki-braised chicken, but you can also dip into abundant raw fish, donburi rice bowls or noodle soups. By night, a more moneyed crowd arrives to indulge in glistening sashimi platters, sunomono salads, tempura and bubbling shabu-shabu hotpots. Alternatively, kaiseki banquet menus offer a more extensive tour of the cuisine and its premium plates. Prices are reasonable, and a seat at the sushi bar adds extra value: “just go easy on the wasabi – it’s strong!” warns a fan.