Kerridge's Fish & Chips

Tom Kerridge’s high-end take on a traditional chippy has settled in inside the imposing, Grade-II listed Harrods Dining Hall. The restaurant accommodates just 24 diners at a time and we’d recommend pulling up a chair at the chef’s counter to enjoy the best seats in the house.

Kerridge’s Fish & Chips’ concise menu comprises snacks, fish, sides and desserts. We started out with an addictively moreish bowl of cockle popcorn, served alongside a cruet which allowed us to indulge in the nostalgic joy of dousing the dish in malted beer vinegar.

For mains, we opted for the market catch of the day, which on our visit was whiting - a fish that’s similar in taste to cod and crucially, not overfished (sustainability is a passion of Kerridge’s). There has been much online discussion about the prices at Kerridge’s; fish, chips and a trio of accompaniments (pease pudding, tartare sauce, curry sauce) starts at £35 per head, rising to £55 should you opt for native lobster.

So, to the £35 question - is it worth it? Well, we suppose when you can pop next door to purchase designer handbags that run into the thousands, it’s all relative, but we will say that this is an exceptionally good plate of food - our batter was crisp and feather-light, achieving its weightlessness thanks to being both gluten and alcohol-free (the latter a way to accommodate Harrods largely Middle Eastern clientele). Accompanying chips - puffy, textured, golden - could almost be mistaken for churros and are the end result of a meticulous two-day process which sees them cooked not once, not twice but thrice.

There are just two desserts available at Kerridge’s Fish & Chips, which sit on distinctly opposite ends of the indulgence spectrum; elderflower syllabub is light and refreshing, while flourless chocolate almond cake is rich and comforting.

There’s no denying that unsuspecting tourists might find the bill hard to swallow (seasoned Londoners would know never to expect a Harrods bargain), but truly delightful staff and a snappy, yet carefully considered wine list should help soften the blow.

The second London site for Michelin-starred chef Tom Kerridge finds its home in iconic luxury department store Harrods. Part of the venue’s Grade-II listed dining hall, Kerridge’s Fish & Chips is an upmarket take on a traditional chippy, serving a menu of premium seafood.

The intimate space has room for just 24 diners and the menu is a celebration of all things fresh fish, with the likes of rock oysters, turbot and lobster all available to order. The menu is also underpinned by top-quality sourcing, with squid brought in from Cornwall and prawns found in Dublin Bay. Other dishes on the menu meanwhile include the likes of cockle popcorn served alongside malted beer vinegar and Morecambe Bay shrimps slathered with spiced paprika butter and accompanied by treacle bread.

Naturally, all of the main courses on the menu can be accompanied by chips, although condiments and extras are rather more luxe than you would find down your local chippy. While curry sauce is available to dip your chips into, there is also the option to top them with lobster thermidor or caviar, just in case you forgot you were dining inside Harrods.

For dessert, guests can choose from classic British sweet treats such as Eton Mess and bread and butter pudding, as well as a few more modern propositions including flourless chocolate almond cake with salted caramel and vanilla Chantilly cream, and elderflower syllabub.

Speaking about the new opening, Kerridge said: “I am proud to bring my take on the best seafood dishes to the most iconic department store in the world. I really believe that British talent and produce are at the forefront of great cuisine and that is reflected in our team and the food we serve at Kerridge’s Fish & Chips in Harrods. The dishes champion the highest quality ingredients including incredible lobster, oysters and freshly caught fish from some of the best suppliers in Britain and beyond. They are all cooked to perfection and served with sensational sides such as the Triple Cooked Chips topped with an option of Matson curry sauce, Lobster Thermidor, Morcambe Bay Shrimps or Caviar – it’s an unbeatable combination.”