Stepping off Charlotte Street and into July feels like travelling back to the 70s, into a world of muted orange and mustard leather seats, and tartan curtains. Throw in a bit of that edgy-London wine bar vibe and you’ve got yourself a hit, perfect for the trendy hordes that roam Fitzrovia.
There’s a feeling of being welcomed into the home of a friend, and not just because of the exuberant joy of owner Solynka who greets us at the door. Cookbooks, potted plants and framed portraits create a sense of warmth and comfort; it’s a bit of a mismatch, but we’re instantly charmed.
An effortlessly light and earthy Nectarine Spritz sets the tone for the evening, warming us up before we delve into the wine list that comes curated by acclaimed sommelier Honey Spencer. There's a wealth of bottles from smaller, European producers, although surprisingly few by-the-glass options for a wine bar.
We ask for recommendations but it’s like asking a parent to pick their favourite child. Each dish is endorsed in a flurried whirlwind of enthusiasm with several proclaimed as ‘absolute favourites.’ And, yet, we’re inclined to agree, as each dish surpasses our already elevated expectations.
Each course encompasses three main food groups: sweet, salty and pickled - a true culmination of its French and German roots. We dunk a spiced pork sausage into a puddle of fiery mustard served with pickled prunes, and slice into a lamb heart, swaddled in green sauce and balanced gently on a bed of caramelised onions. It’s hearty, comfort food at its core, stylish yet simple. We happily tuck into thick, hash-brown-like slabs of rösti potatoes adorned with ham, runny-yolked eggs, and a zingy tomato ketchup that puts others to shame.
Dessert comes in the form of a rhubarb and custard crepe. It lacks the promised gingery twang, and perhaps a touch of ambition, but we scrape the plate clean regardless.
Miles apart from stuffy, uptight dining, July is an utter delight. With its family-run feel, joyful service and nostalgic ambiance, we could happily spend several evenings at this charming neighbourhood spot.