Jamavar

Indian fine-dining group Jamavar has seen astronomical success on the subcontinent, and now Londoners are getting a glimpse of what makes it “something special”. It also reminds diners just how good Indian cuisine can be in the right hands.

This is the group’s sixth site (the other five are all in India), so it’s no surprise that the Mayfair outlet is a well-oiled machine that “scores high on everything” – and that includes picking up a Michelin star. The mood is “lively” rather than subdued, while high-ceilinged interiors play to the colonial vibe – think dark-wood panels, lots of brass and eye-catching Tanjore paintings.

The kitchen hops merrily around India’s many regions, delivering a host of “divine” and “authentic” dishes along the way. We were particularly impressed by the crunchy, peppery soft-shell crab with sweet-sour damson chutney and pickled garlic, as well as a stunning melt-in-the-mouth hunk of spicy stone-bass tikka enlivened with green cardamom and avocado chutney. Readers also rave about the delightful goat kebabs with mint chutney and parathas.

For main, our jheenga moilee was a near-perfect rendition of this sweet, coconutty Goan prawn curry (and cleverly paired with a Daniel Chotard Sancerre Rosé), while silky smooth mango pulp atop a coconut and biscuit base with cherry compote provided a refined end to proceedings.  

Service is friendly and swift, but not quite as well-drilled as some of the nearby Michelin big boys, while a lengthy wine list pays most attention to Old World bins. A bespoke meat-free tasting menu makes this a great shout for vegetarians too, and the lunch offer is reckoned to be “excellent value for money”.

Jamavar is a Michelin-starred fine dining Indian restaurant in Mayfair. Named after the ornate 16th-century shawls worn in Kashmir, the restaurant is headed up by executive chef and culinary director Surendar Mohan. Jamavar, like its sibling restaurants all over the globe, offers up a range of elegant Indian dishes to its clientele. Blended in with classics and new creations are family recipes from the Nair family, who founded the restaurant. As with many eateries of this ilk, there is a bounty of choice.

Diners at Jamavar may wish to start their meal with a signature cocktail. This would be a wise move in our opinion, as the options include the likes of an imperial old fashioned, made with Maker's Mark, Amaro Montenegro, salted honey and Mumbai bitters. For something a little lighter, there are mixes like the wild saviour, blending Elephant gin with cucumber, orange bitters and tonic. There is also a selection of Laurent Perrier, perfect for celebrations. 

The small plates at Jamavar serve as the perfect introduction to what is on offer. You might snack on a hand-dived, seared scallop with coconut sauce, ginger relish and plantain crisps, or a kid goat kebab with bone marrow sauce, mint chutney and chur chur paratha. 

Moving to the tandoor (a must at any Indian restaurant worth its salt), veggies can go for some grilled paneer with papaya salad, while seafood lovers might want to try the southern spiced prawns with peanut and curry leaf chutney. A choice of chicken or lamb might be offered to meat-eaters.

The amount of choice doesn't dwindle when it comes to main courses, as there are usually ten or 11 options. Highlights include 8-hour slow-cooked lamb shank with Rajasthani chilli, lobster neeruli with pearl onions and kal dosa or a Calicut sea bass curry.