Holm

Lots of talented chefs have moved from London out into the British countryside in recent years, and Somerset has been one of the counties to benefit most. This quaint pocket of East Somerset particularly is now home to some really high quality restaurants - perhaps thanks to relative accessibility of the capital (just an hour and a quarter on the train from nearby Taunton, by the way).

Taking residence in a former bank in the small town of South Petherton - which means this is one of few high-end restaurants with a working ATM on its premises - you might wonder how a full kitchen and excellent outdoor seating have been squeezed into what surely used to be a stuffy vault. But beyond the rustic-chic of bare brick and plaster walls lies a core belief in being inspired by the local countryside, and looking through the menu of local and home-grown ingredients, that shines through with aplomb. Head upstairs and Holm also adds some very tastefully refurbished overnight rooms to an already enticing offering.

Visitors from London will also see the £59 a head tasting menu as extremely good value for money - there is also an a la carte on offer, but the chef’s menu is the best way to get a feel for what Holm is all about. Westcombe Cheddar ‘fries’ are a staple on the menu - these crispy cheese croquettes are married with a dab of pickled walnut to offset the intense umami. There are little boats of crunchy radicchio with anchovy, and excellent sourdough. It’s all well executed, comforting, well-paced.

There’s solid technique on display too, with a trio of ricotta agnolotti, delivered in a stick pool of smoked butter with chanterelles - doubtless picked just a short distance from the restaurant. Backed up by a tight cocktail selection (the house Negroni is suitably stiff) and an excellent wine list, Holm is a welcome boon to the area that is more than worth the journey.

Holm is a modern and inviting restaurant in Somerset, serving a contemporary menu of locally inspired dishes and seasonal produce. It is the fourth restaurant from the team behind London restaurants Salon, Levan and Larry’s. You will find an a la carte menu, plus a chef’s tasting menu, lunch and vegetarian options available. There is also a Sunday lunch menu, featuring the likes of Alford Farm pork belly with red cabbage and black pudding. 

The restaurant itself is a light and airy space with an open kitchen and a bar area. If you’re visiting for dinner you will find a seasonal and changing menu, however, you may find dishes such as smoked pumpkin soup served with yoghurt, and barbecued squid served with Jerusalem artichoke. For mains, dishes might include baked celeriac with truffle and hazelnut, or gilt-head bream with crown prince squash and brown butter. There is also a selection of side dishes to choose from, plus dessert and a choice of Somerset cheeses. 

If you’re visiting for Sunday lunch you may find dishes such as mallard to share served with confit leg, red cabbage and bread sauce, and a roasted celeriac served with girolles, and mushroom ketchup.

The wine list has been thoughtfully crafted and features many organic wines from small artisan producers. The restaurant has its own wine vault, which stores a number of locally sourced ciders, perries and wines. The house negroni is famous and you'll often see seasonal cocktails too.

Nicholas Balfe is the founder and chef director at Holm. The restaurant is housed in a former bank and sits on a large quarter acre plot in the heart of the village of South Petherton.