It’s all too beautiful at the Hive in Burton Bradstock, where the combination of a National Trust beach, posh food and an elegant wine list draws a Boden-clad crowd – many of them of them locals entertaining friends from ‘the smoke’. It can seem pricey (£60 for a seafood platter, thank you very much), particularly as you are expected to use the nearby public toilets and have to queue if you want to order or settle your bill. Indeed, recent (2019) reports of slack service need to be addressed at these prices. That said, it’s a handy drop-in after an invigorating walk on the beach or over the cliffs, and there are some down-to-earth staples at the heart of the menu – the crab sandwiches, tempura-battered cod and fish soup are recommended.
A sister café, the Watch House, is now open in nearby West Bay, promising a cooler vibe, retro interiors and diner-style food.