Henrock at Linthwaite House

Simon Rogan’s influence on the Cumbrian dining scene has been profound, though Henrock has remained relatively under the radar compared to his more renowned establishments. First impressions are excellent - you’ll find the restaurant tucked away in Linthwaite House hotel, at the end of a seemingly endless driveway that takes in acres of the hotel’s impressive grounds.

Henrock has all the hallmarks of a hotel restaurant: it’s neutral and, yes, quite inoffensive, but still feels elegant and luxurious, with artwork and trinkets dotting the bright, lofty space. The conservatory-style lounge boasts a roaring fire to warm yourself by with a pre-dinner tipple, and on sunnier days you can see far into the surrounding Cumbrian landscape through the huge windows.

Sourcing and home-grown ingredients play a big part in the Henrock experience, with produce selected from Rogan’s farm just a few miles down the road in Cartmel Valley. Snacks set the tone, beginning with a shatteringly-thin carrot tart, filled with smoked eel and creamy ewe’s curd. On top it’s dressed artistically with ribbons of passandra cucumber and a hint of green bean miso, introducing the restaurant’s subtle Japanese influences. Next, cubes of beetroot are nested in a gentle nori foam. The bread course showcases whipped miso butter, which we smother across a wholemeal sourdough boule. It could feel forced but it works - gentle notes of east-Asian flavours that seamlessly meld with Rogan’s staunchly British style. Mains are equally excellent, the best of which is a sizable cut of Houghton Springs trout, draped in a beautiful sauce of smoked fish bones and lemon verbena – a complex dish that dances alongside a glass of Chenin Blanc.

Any place that serves a pre-dessert before the final course is a good one in our books and we delve into a refreshing interlude of beeswax cream, drizzled with honey (from the Cartmel hives) with pollen and fennel granola, that acts as a refreshing interlude. The savoury notes of buckwheat ice cream don’t quite work for us, but a tart blackcurrant coulis keeps the wheels turning.

Service here is grandly orchestrated: synchronised plate delivery, tableside sauce presentations, and a stately cheese trolley that makes the rounds throughout the evening, showing that you don’t need white-clothed tables for an evening of fine dining.

Henrock is a refined dining experience in an invitingly scenic location, and whilst an evening here might be on the pricier side, it’s one well spent.

Surrounded by immaculately manicured gardens and boasting stunning views over Lake Windermere, Linthwaite House hotel is the perfect setting for Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan and his farm-to-fork cooking. Named after Hen Holme (a craggy island visible from the terrace of Linthwaite House), Henrock’s focus is on hyper-seasonal small plates, inspired by the chef’s travels around the world, and made with produce from Simon’s own farm, located just a few miles from Linthwaite House.

Rogan has assembled an all-star team of acolytes here to manage the project, including the ever-present Tom Barnes, head chef Sam Fry and head of operations Nicolas Perdrier - all of whom have plenty of experience in Rogan's restaurants, and invaluable understanding of his farm-to-fork ethos and high standards of hospitality.

The menu at Henrock delves into myriad influences from all over the world. Starters include saikyo miso glazed aubergine with furikake, black garlic and smoked dashi, and cured mackerel in jalapeno cream with buttermilk-fried oyster, whilst mains are equally eclectic - white Pekin duck is roasted and confited and served with smoked beetroot and chicory jam, and there's a barbecue oyster mushroom dish with caramelised grain ragu and a tarragon bordelaise. It’s a step away from Simon’s other restaurants (L’Enclume, Roganic, Aulis and Rogan & Co.), where the focus is very much on British influences, techniques and produce, but given that the chef also has successful Roganic and Aulis restaurants in Hong Kong, it's not surprising to see more Asian influence in his British menus too. 

Henrock also offers Sunday lunch and afternoon tea, and boasts an impressive cocktail list, as well as a Coravin wines by the glass, and a hefty collection of spirits and liqueurs.