Simon Rogan’s influence on the Cumbrian dining scene has been profound, though Henrock has remained relatively under the radar compared to his more renowned establishments. First impressions are excellent - you’ll find the restaurant tucked away in Linthwaite House hotel, at the end of a seemingly endless driveway that takes in acres of the hotel’s impressive grounds.
Henrock has all the hallmarks of a hotel restaurant: it’s neutral and, yes, quite inoffensive, but still feels elegant and luxurious, with artwork and trinkets dotting the bright, lofty space. The conservatory-style lounge boasts a roaring fire to warm yourself by with a pre-dinner tipple, and on sunnier days you can see far into the surrounding Cumbrian landscape through the huge windows.
Sourcing and home-grown ingredients play a big part in the Henrock experience, with produce selected from Rogan’s farm just a few miles down the road in Cartmel Valley. Snacks set the tone, beginning with a shatteringly-thin carrot tart, filled with smoked eel and creamy ewe’s curd. On top it’s dressed artistically with ribbons of passandra cucumber and a hint of green bean miso, introducing the restaurant’s subtle Japanese influences. Next, cubes of beetroot are nested in a gentle nori foam. The bread course showcases whipped miso butter, which we smother across a wholemeal sourdough boule. It could feel forced but it works - gentle notes of east-Asian flavours that seamlessly meld with Rogan’s staunchly British style. Mains are equally excellent, the best of which is a sizable cut of Houghton Springs trout, draped in a beautiful sauce of smoked fish bones and lemon verbena – a complex dish that dances alongside a glass of Chenin Blanc.
Any place that serves a pre-dessert before the final course is a good one in our books and we delve into a refreshing interlude of beeswax cream, drizzled with honey (from the Cartmel hives) with pollen and fennel granola, that acts as a refreshing interlude. The savoury notes of buckwheat ice cream don’t quite work for us, but a tart blackcurrant coulis keeps the wheels turning.
Service here is grandly orchestrated: synchronised plate delivery, tableside sauce presentations, and a stately cheese trolley that makes the rounds throughout the evening, showing that you don’t need white-clothed tables for an evening of fine dining.
Henrock is a refined dining experience in an invitingly scenic location, and whilst an evening here might be on the pricier side, it’s one well spent.