From the outside, Heft looks like nothing more than your quaint village pub. On another day we might have driven straight past, on our way to neighbouring lakes and fells, but Heft is without a doubt a destination in its own right. Patrons Kevin and Nicola Tickle are Cumbrian born-and-bred, and that profound comprehension of the surrounding area comes through in spectacular style at Heft.
The restaurant itself sits in a revamped 17th-century village inn, blending the heart and soul of your local boozer with the clean-cut precision of some of the country’s best restaurants - a winning combination. The space maintains an elegant simplicity, with Scandi furnishings tucked into the original beams and nooks, creating a hideaway for each table.
While there’s an extravagant tasting menu available each evening, we’ve popped in for lunch, delving through four courses of Tickle’s superb cooking. Kevin’s background is instrumental to the menu, distilling the region’s natural landscape into carefully considered, ingredient-led plates.
Don’t ask us to pick a favourite; from the first bite of a paper-thin croustade filled with Hafod cheddar, onion and wispy strands of dehydrated leek, each dish is a standout. A soft yet crisp crumpet cylinder looks almost too good to eat, dressed with a viscous egg jam, smoked ham and a dusting of onion powder that brings everything together.
Tickle is a master of doing a lot with a little. Many of the dishes skilfully combine just a few key ingredients, such as the perfect half-moons of golden, salt-baked beetroot with sour cream, watercress pesto and shards of buckwheat crackers. Just when you think the meal has peaked, it keeps getting better. An umami-bomb tarragon dashi cuts through silky-smooth thyme custard with rapier-like sharpness, while a cut of BBQ pork neck is glazed in a fragrant allium and sage broth, contrasted with fermented courgettes and a punchy aubergine puree.
Desserts take everything up a notch, if that’s even possible, with a goat’s milk panna cotta layered with a tart plum and damson sauce, and a marigold oil. The sprinkling of a honeycomb crumb adds a playful texture and is a welcome addition that has us scraping the bowl clean.
Whilst we’re already hankering for another visit to try out the full dinner menu, when it comes to value for money, we’d argue that this might just be the best £45 you ever spend. It might look quaint, but don’t be fooled – Heft is right up there with the UK’s best restaurants.