Grasso joins the growing ranks of American-style Italian restaurants popping up across the capital, but this family-run spot has quickly made a name for itself, and we can see why. From its overflowing, embossed plates of comfort foods to the neon orange bar slap bang in the middle of the dining room, it’s clear that Grasso doesn’t do things by halves.
At first glance it seems a rather intimate space, where white-clothed tables are overly packed together. But an exploration of the venue shows how many seats are really on offer. It just goes on and on; a labyrinth of brightly lit and funky artworked corridors.
Food here feels familiar - there’s nothing especially groundbreaking about the menu, but little twists and eye-catching displays quickly win us over and keep us on board. We start the evening with mozzarella sticks, and what a start. Chunky and cheesy, with a golden crisp shell that, on its own, would have left us pretty satisfied. But the addition of a chilli, ‘nduja and honey sauce brings the dish to life. Crab, meanwhile, is a fun addition to a prawn cocktail, topped with a fully shelled prawn staring back at you with beady eyes. It’s tasty, although the marie-rose sauce-to-lettuce ratio is not quite cutting it, and would benefit from another dollop of sauce.
Mains continue this trend, as all the pizzas and pastas are completely smothered in cheese. A pepperoni pizza has too much crust for our liking, but these are just minor issues that could be fixed by a bit of fine tuning.
No need to ask for a dessert menu, there are only two options: tiramisu and a baked blueberry cheesecake. Here, the tiramisu has done away with a thick layer of coffee-drenched sponge, choosing instead to put the focus on the cream with slabs that offer a decadent end to our evening.
We get why so many people have flooded to this spot: hefty portions, excellent value for money and a buzzing atmosphere. It’s a fun new spot befitting its Soho location.