There were a few eye rolls when it was announced that the former site of Bruno Loubet’s Grain Store would become part of the increasingly omnipresent Ivy Collection. Here though, the iconic Ivy moniker has been ditched and replaced with Granary Square Brasserie (we hear the developers didn’t want any restaurant chains in the Square). Nevertheless, it’s very much in the Ivy Brasserie mould – think a jewel-box colour scheme, plush furnishings and switched-on waiters gussied up in suits. The menu isn’t much different either, comprising a selection of simple, well-executed dishes: crispy rings of calamari are pepped up with a sharp wasabi mayo, creamy sautéed mushrooms are piled atop a block of toasted brioche, and delicious balls of truffle arancini burst in the mouth. Mains include staples such as steaks, burgers and fish and chips; our vibrant salad of grilled chicken strips on a bed of crunchy quinoa, with an indulgent side of truffle and parmesan chips, hit the spot. Scotch-based cocktails such as The Flying Scotsman are a fun nod to nearby King’s Cross, while sugary desserts include a glitter-dusted chocolate shell melted at the table by a hot caramel sauce. Like its stablemates, Granary Square Brasserie is far from revolutionary, but for a luxe-feeling dining experience that won’t break the bank, it’s a good shout.