Tucked away on Askew Road, Giulia has the inherent feel of a family-run trattoria; a slightly off-the-beaten-path spot for locals and those ‘in the know.’ A kind of home away from home where you can while away a few hours over good food and gentle conversation. It’s a simple but well-oiled operation, with Giulia herself manning the front of house, and Endris, her partner, running the kitchen.
The interior design is effortlessly chic: cream and sage green walls, ivy cascading across the ceiling, wine bottles stacked in wall-mounted cages, with soft woven pendant lighting casting a gentle glow around the compact dining room. The Scandi-style tables are admittedly a tad too close together, but it fits the cosy setting.
We begin with an aperitivo, a simple Spritz that doesn’t quite have us escaping to sunnier climates, but the accompanying salt-specked focaccia and crisp, homemade breadsticks make for a pleasing introduction, especially when generously dipped in rich olive oil and tangy balsamic.
Monthly changing menus are succinct, just a few well-executed dishes that are ever changing, reflecting the restaurant’s ethos of simplicity and quality. A seared octopus tentacle, however, is the exception to the rule, a staple that has earned its place as a standout dish. One perfectly tender tentacle sits in a fiery puddle of ‘nduja sauce that brings a welcome heat, balanced by blackened cauliflower florets and a silky-smooth potato purée to tie everything together.
Lamb rump and braised shoulder continues the trend of artful Italian simplicity. It arrives perfectly pink in the middle, drenched in a rich, meaty gravy that pools around perfect cubes of roasted polenta, the insides as light as air encased in a crisp, golden shell. The food here is pure comfort, best showcased by the evening’s dessert; a molten chocolate fondant that oozes decadence from the first spoonful. Whilst a dollop of zabaglione cream could easily make this dessert too sweet for many, a scoop of pistachio gelato is on hand to cut through the intensity with a nutty, refreshing coolness.
In a city where dining out often feels hurried and impersonal, Giulia offers a welcome respite. With its honest, heartfelt cooking in a space that makes you feel at home, we reckon London could do with a few more spots just like it.