Understated neighbourhood stalwart decked out in soft tones that colour an unpretentious setting. There’s no post-modern, crowd-pleasing ascetic here, but the brasserie cliché fits perfectly with the safe, conservative, ‘village’ vibe, just a stone’s throw from Wandsworth Common. While the ambience is supplied by the hum of contented locals, it’s the execution of a well-considered classic French menu that fuels the patronage of loyal regulars.
Entrance is by way of a little side alley taking you direct into the front conservatory. The main room is lined with tables, consumed stellar bottles and various artefacts including a scrabble table and a Welsh slate table, complete with chalks. Somehow all this effects a sense of both intimacy and congeniality. If this all seems a touch déjà vu, make no mistake they go down a treat with fans.
Diners are well rewarded with a traditional, deceptively simple menu. Amongst the starters there are oysters, mussels and prawns, or that most retro of dishes, the camembert roti.
Main stalwarts include cote de boeuf (for 2 or 3 two people), tarragon chicken supreme with broad beans or asparagus risotto. While desserts go large on expertly wrought millefeuille or dacquoise. A notable two course set lunch, which might include partridge and mash, weighs in at a very modest £15. Rousillon white and Carcassone rosé for under £25 looks decidedly ungreedy these days and is typical of the no frills, realisitic prices approach. There is a bundle of wine choice from across France, and rarely do the prices rise above £50 a bottle.
Brunch here is a delight: naughty benedicte, royale salmon or cocotte haddock. And If this corner of Wandsworth seems too far to trek on a weekday evening, try coming for Sunday, when a post-lunch walk among the dog-walkers on the common makes a day of it.