Furna

Brighton’s restaurant scene is one of the most exciting in the country, but if there’s one thing lacking in this seaside city it’s true fine dining. Enter Dave Mothersill - the former exec chef of Razak Helalat’s Black Rock Restaurants and Ben McKeller’s The Gingerman - with a fresh new special occasion spot, smack bang in the middle of central Brighton.

Furna takes up residence in a gorgeous Grade-II Georgian building in the New Road parade by Royal Pavilion Gardens. Lots of period features have been retained, tastefully, on the inside, so Furna feels grand and spacious but still quite contemporary thanks to mustard yellow bar stools and sleek furniture. The focal point is the open kitchen at the end of the room, where Dave and his team calmly turn out some of the most accomplished cooking we’ve tasted anywhere.

Dave’s cooking undoubtedly has an Asian accent, without being fusion. Rather than any specific culture or nation, the menu is largely informed by seasonal produce. Our December visit meant the menu was packed with bold, comforting winter flavours, from a snack of beef tartare with fermented ponzu and roast cep powder, to an outstanding sika deer dish that used multiple parts of the animal, including a succulent pancake of braised venison neck, Agen prunes and beetroot, with a rich sauce of hazelnut and roasted bones.

There’s no shortage of luxury on the menu either. After a fluffy, glazed Parker House roll arrives with roasted yeast butter - one of the best bread courses we’ve had in some time - the menu launches straight into a langoustine royale, served with caviar, apple and tangy yuzu kosho. It’s a stunning combination - a statement of intent - made all the better by a fresh, creamy, lees-aged muscadet.

Whether it’s barbecued lobster, mirin meringue with quince and pine, or a chocolate, coffee and pumpkin miso dessert, there’s very little to fault from start to finish. That includes wine pairings and cocktails, which can often feel like an afterthought but are expertly crafted here - try the sake, vermouth and shiso-infused ‘Shiso’ for size. Every aspect of the experience at Furna is carefully thought-out and the results are superb, making this easily one of Brighton’s very best restaurants.

Brighton’s Dave Mothersill has spent his whole career working around some of Brighton’s most respected and recognisable restaurants, including stints at Terre a Terre, with Ben McKellar at The Gingerman, and years as executive chef for Razak Helalat’s Black Rock group, during which time he opening The Salt Room and The Coal Shed in London.

At Furna, Mothersill is breaking out on his own and putting his own spin on fine dining. You’ll find the restaurant in a very central spot near the Royal Pavilion Gardens, making it easy to get to from anywhere in the city, as well as being a short walk from the seafront.

A bar area in the entrance provides a stopping point for pre- and post-dinner drinks, and the restaurant itself has 26 covers. The basement holds a walk-in wine room as well as a private dining room and chef’s table for groups of four to eight.

The menu is around eight courses including snacks, and includes an optional cheese course to finish. Mothersill’s style is broadly international, incorporating lots of Asian flavours in subtle ways. The restaurant also works with whole animals, using every part of the animal to craft dishes. Dishes on the menu include milk brined veal sweetbread with kabocha squash, maple sherry and roasted chicken sauce, and salt aged Sika deer with beetroots, Agen prunes, bone marrow and bitter chocolate.

There is also an extensive drinks menu that includes smart house cocktails, classic mixes, spirits, non-alcoholic options and a compact wine list that includes a selection of rare fine wines. Furna also offers a wine pairing to go with the menu.