The team behind Planet of the Grapes has done it again with this spiffy little bottle shop and wine bar. We suspect that Thomas Fox would approve of the revamp of his famed umbrella emporium, first opened in 1868 and with royalty among its patrons. Spread over three floors, the Grade II-listed interior has been sensitively modernised, making use of original features such as sturdy walnut display cabinets alongside anglepoise wall lamps, dark wood floors and eye-catching wallpaper featuring a menagerie of wild animals. Food is less exotic, with a comforting selection of nibbles, small plates and hearty platters. We kicked off with bone-dry manzanilla sherry paired with Parmesan bites and spicy paprika almonds, before tucking into The Geezer platter: warm sausage rolls, Scotch egg and a generous slab of pork pie, accompanied by a decent Rioja. There are plans to expand the menu once all the renovations are complete.