Fatto Pizza & Beer

On our summertime visit to Fatto a Mano, which means made by hand, we sit outside. Sipping Campari and orange spritzes under the albeit optimistic parasols, it almost feels like a holiday. Inside, meanwhile, the tiny kitchen is alive with grinning pizzaioli, and the clay oven is scarcely empty. Salty snacks are a must on evenings like this, so we tuck into parma and coppa, balanced by a now-ubiquitous ball of burrata. As nice as they are, they were fatto elsewhere. Besides, the pizza (and beer) should take centre stage, which they soon do.

We sample the Fatto Bionda and Limoncello IPA. The first is a deliciously smooth pilsner, while the second is pleasingly tangy, almost bordering on tart. Some would argue, however, that paying £6.50 should get you more than 2/3rds of a pint. No matter, because the affordability of pizza levels out the price per head (around £30 including sides and spritzes). Service, meanwhile, is remarkably slick, despite the restaurant being brand new and completely full.

As the pizzas arrive, the skill behind them is instantly clear. The first sign is their huge pillowy crusts, only achieved by the slowest of proves. Second, the sugo is deliciously fresh, with a bold acidity to contrast the cheese. Finally, the mozzarella itself is deliciously creamy but used sparingly. Tick, tick, tick. Given this perfect platform, the toppings don’t have to do much. On one, fiery ‘nduja and soothing sweet peppers battle it out, while on the other, ham is supercharged by truffle and taleggio. 

Here, anything that isn’t pizza or beer somewhat falls by the wayside (case in point: there isn't a dessert menu yet). But it doesn’t matter, because the eponymous dishes are excellent, and that’s what we came for. And with neighbours like Kiss the Hippo and Sushi on Jones, the name Pizza & Beer feels refreshingly straightforward.

Fatto a Mano (made by hand in Italian) has a simple offering: great Neapolitan pizza and independent craft beer. Having started in Brighton back in 2015, the chain has grown thanks to its focus on process and the quality of ingredients. While there are sites in both Shoreditch and Croydon Boxpark, King’s Cross was the chain’s first bricks and mortar opening in London. As any good pizzaiolo will tell you, it all starts with the dough. This dough uses the finest Italian 00 flour and is slow-proved for at least 24 hours (this minimises the amount of yeast needed, ensuring the pizza stays light). Toppings feature British ingredients from smaller suppliers and each pizza is cooked for around 90 seconds at 450 degrees.

Chilli lovers should opt for the diavola, a classic combination of tomato, spicy salami, chilli, mozzarella and basil with some parmesan thrown in too. A perhaps lesser-known option is the salsiccia e friarielli, which features fennel sausage, Neapolitan wild broccoli, chilli, smoked cheese, mozzarella and parmesan. Our plant-based pals aren’t left out here, as the restaurant also offers a vegan option with tomato, olive and tomato ‘nduja, roasted peppers, black olives, vegan cheese and basil. Be sure to check the monthly special, which might be a more unusual topping selection, such as Cetara tuna fillets, ‘nduja cream, roasted onions, mozzarella, parmesan, basil and crispy capers.

The house signature beer Fatto Bionda Pilsner, brewed by Harbour Brewing Co of Cornwall, is one of the delicious craft creations on tap. Other beers include the Joozy Hazy Pale from UnBarred in Brighton and KBirr’s #cuoredinapoli (heart of Naples) APA. Soft drinks and aperitivi such as negronis and Aperol spritzes are also available, to complete the full Italian experience. Sides typically include Italian staples like Sicilian olives, fennel tarallini and garlic bread, as well as more western dishes like garlic and rosemary fries.