Dishoom Covent Garden

The more things change, the more they stay the same, it seems. It’s been 10 years since we started queuing outside Dishoom branches, bolstered by snacks and warm drinks. Despite the hype-driven impermanence of London’s restaurant scene, we’re still queuing for a taste of black daal, lamb raan and gunpowder potatoes.

On this evidence, that is testament to Dishoom’s quality - you have to have something about you to stick around for this long in London, let alone to have people waiting outside in the cold for a table. Dishoom Covent Garden had a little refurb in 2020 - the new interior retains the Irani cafe vibe, but there’s also homage paid to Bombay’s ‘talkie’ cinemas of the 40s. The diffused, softened, faded feel reminded us of the Blue Parrot Cafe in Casablanca - wrong continent, but certainly the right silver screen decade. 

The menu hasn’t changed much but that’s no bad thing - if we’re coming to Dishoom, we’re coming for the classics. The House Chaat is sadly unavailable, but we dive into keema buns, packed with minced lamb and a crisp, satisfying pile of okra fries. Classics like the chicken ruby, black daal and gunpowder potatoes are unchanged and all the better for it - you could order a chicken curry, dal and a triple carb bomb of steamed rice, naan and potatoes and leave very happy indeed. That said, it’s worth leaving room for a kulfi - we had the excellent pistachio this time around, but they’re all delightful. 

Cocktails are also worth a mention. Half the fun of Dishoom is hanging out in the bar before your table is ready and enjoying a cocktail and a few snacks - for the most part they’re riffs on classics, but they’re very well done. After a welcome refurb, Dishoom still delivers the goods.

The flagship Dishoom in Covent Garden is still a firm favourite for many loyal fans of the restaurant group despite its expansion across London and beyond by virtue of its unwavering popularity. Bringing an authentic taste of Indian street food to central London, Dishoom pays homage to the Irani cafés that were once an integral part of Bombay’s social culture.

The décor is reminiscent of post-colonial West India, complete with white glass pendulum lights, whirring ceiling fans, marble table tops and Art Deco tiling. On the walls, sepia stained family portraits and vintage advertising posters add to the sense of nostalgia which is reflected in the menu. Open from 8am in the morning until late at night, the restaurant prides itself on offering traditional comfort food that’s perfect for sharing at any time hunger strikes. It’s the relaxed fodder of many an Indian home and diners are encouraged to use their hands for the full authentic experience.

From the grill a selection of meat, vegetable and seafood kababs and tikkas combine aromatic marinades with the smoky charring of an open-fire. Elsewhere diners are spoilt for a choice with a selection of curries, biryani and small plates designed for sharing. The House Black Daal is a signature staple – cooked slowly for over 24 hours, it promises a dark and rich harmony of flavours. Unique to the Covent Garden site is chef’s Mutton Pepper Fry, a South Indian speciality which sees tender pieces of mutton marinated in spices and served with Malabar-style soft paratha.  

The drinks list offers just as many delights with a wide array of alcoholic and virgin cocktails served at the table or in the stylish Permit Room downstairs. Look out for the Debonair, a Covent Garden special that blends orange, marmalade vodka, ginger, star anise bitters and orange cream soda. Naturally there is a good selection of IPA’s and beers to choose from as well as a reasonably priced list of red, white and sparkling wines.

Breakfast at Dishoom has become a bit of a ritual for those in the know, and many are prepared to queue from as early as 8am for a signature bacon naan roll. This humble breakfast has won many an accolade thanks to its streaky rashers, smoked overnight in traditional fashion. At weekends, a breakfast feast offers plentiful portions of everything for guests to help themselves.