‘When in Rome, do as the Romans do’, as they say. By that logic, a trip to Scotland means ‘enjoy a dram’. Devil’s Advocate has a 200-strong whisky list and the country’s distilling heritage is handily broken down by region (Speyside, Highlands, Islay etc), but it doesn’t stop there. Whiskies from Ireland, Japan, Belgium, Sweden and Australia all feature, as well as an impressive selection of bourbons. Cocktails suit every eventuality: long, short, straight-up and digestif to go with riffs on some other Scottish must-haves – perhaps black haggis bonbons with turnip and thyme purée or pan-fried coley with roasted sweet potato, chorizo, kale and chilli. The whole lot is housed in a former Victorian pump house, with a double-height ceiling and bare brick walks, which come in handy to shelve all of those tempting bottles. From the same stable as The Bon Vivant.