Decimo at The Standard

Following the closure of flagship restaurant Casamia, Peter Sanchez-Iglesias’s London outpost has had a little menu revamp, or so we hear - the menu on our revisit seems to somewhat resemble the old one. That’s not necessarily a bad thing - much of what remains is fantastic, from the crisp, golden croquetas, stuffed to the brim with light hammy bechamel, to the oozing tortilla (with or without an extravagant lump of caviar - we recommend the latter for the safety of your bank account).

We rather like the late sixties vibe of The Standard and its crowning restaurant, but your mileage may vary on all the rattan, macrame and dark red tiling. Though you can get there from the hotel, Decimo has its own street-side entrance and lift, which zips you up to floor ten with a gorgeous view of King’s Cross and St Pancras.

Inside you’ll find the tiki bar stylings of the Decimo bar - a fabulous place to enjoy a mezcalita with a view. Beyond is Decimo's wonderful dining room, which has a terrific buzz and energy. Service is slick and friendly, chatty staff make you feel well looked after. Pitched down lighting gives the restaurant a clubby feel that only intensifies when DJs arrive and start banging out anything from classic rock to avant garde jazz.

Decimo isn’t cheap, but there are some very good things on offer if you’re ready to loosen the purse strings. The pigeon that accompanies creamy, braised white beans and morcilla is perfectly pink, and a thick cut of monkfish fillet has pleasing density, and gleams with a mexteca glaze. Throw in a couple of excellent sides - a charcoal-grilled leek with romesco sauce smothered over its softened innards was a particular highlight - and you’ll find yourself pretty well fed.

Desserts are good too, particularly a cloud-like chocolate mousse with extra virgin olive oil and wafer thin toasts. Is there better food for the price in London? Probably, but as a whole experience Decimo holds its own with great atmosphere, friendly service and cracking views.

Sitting on the 10th floor of The Standard Hotel in King's Cross, Decimo is run by popular Bristolian chef Peter Sanchez-Iglesias, notable for Bristol restaurants such as Casamia and Paco Tapas. Decimo combines aspects of Sanchez-Iglesias' Spanish menu at Paco Tapas with Mexican influences.

The restaurant has its own street-level entrance, where guests can take a glass elevator up to the top floor, enjoying a view over King's Cross and St Pancras stations. As you enter you'll find the bar directly in front of you, where you can enjoy a range of house cocktails, as well as mezcals and tequilas by the glass. The interiors have a fun and whimsical 60s vibe - rattan lampshades cast shadows over the dining room, whilst macrame curtains give a glimpse of the views beyond. Tables are bedecked in dark red tiles, and cactus plants adorn the dining room, which has a large roaring terracotta firepit in the centre.

The menu kicks off with a selection of nibbles, as well as cured meats, croquetas and a Spanish tortilla (available with caviar if you're feeling flush). From there, the menu combines Spanish and Mexican sensibilities with dishes like octopus aguachile with tomato and jalapeno, pork ribs with mole glaze, grilled monkfish with mexteca glaze, and pigeon with white beans and morcilla sausage. There are plenty of options for vegetarians too, and many dishes make use of a custom-built charcoal grill. You can even observes chef managing the flames in the open kitchen. 

The drinks list, meanwhile, is extensive, ranging from house cocktails to a compact, curated wine list. More notable is Decimo's 'Agave Programme', where Decimo features a huge range of different tequilas and mezcals from all over Mexico. Decimo also has a rooftop, which is often open to the public in summer.