Art world power couple Iwan and Manuela Wirth continue to stride confidently into the UK restaurant scene with Da Costa, which replaces Roth Bar & Grill on Artfarm’s picturesque Bruton campus. A rustic Italian farmhouse kitchen might feel an odd fit for Bruton, but the influence comes directly from Iwan Wirth’s Italian grandfather, who emigrated to Switzerland and ran a small restaurant there for many years.
Da Costa continues that legacy, though we imagine with a rather bigger warchest to spend than was available to the elder Mr Wirth. As a result, this old stone building has had a huge makeover, and for all you can say about Artfarm, it knows how to design a restaurant. What other group could casually sling wicker baskets and chairs over the rafters of a dining room and make it look elegant? Da Costa is a restaurant of small, meaningful touches, from copper pans bundled onto hooks around the kitchen to lone candles burning gently on the tables. Each detail has purpose, and the result makes it a lovely place to spend an afternoon, especially given the excellent drinks selection.
Anyone who loves Italian food will light up at the sight of the menu, which builds around seasonal produce from nearby Durslade Farm, as well as wild ingredients gathered by Artfarm’s in-house forager Kenny. Thankfully the blazing fires of the open kitchen aren’t just for show - there’s some excellent cooking that emerges. A rare slab of venison is perfectly cooked, dressed with Da Costa sauce (the contents are a mystery but it’s an excellent sauce) on a bed of rich, buttery polenta. We love simple but well executed little bites, like crisp gnocco fritto loaded with folds of mortadella, and melting fonduta croquettes drizzled with Durslade Farm honey. Among the pasta dishes, pappardelle is nicely made with good bite, but a confit duck ragu sauce hasn’t quite had the requisite tossing to thicken up. Any quibbles are small, though, and Da Costa is still early in its journey. Stylish, but with substance, this is another lustrous feather in Artfarm’s cap.