It’s scarcely surprising that Cambium is a British restaurant inspired by nature, hidden as it is among the New Forest trees surrounding Careys Manor Hotel. In the dining room, booth-style leather seating and trendy, dangling lamp-lights are lent rusticity by hand-painted English trees, a twisted central wooden table, and golden oak-leaf screens. Locality also informs the menu in such dishes as pressed free-range chicken with New Forest ham and quails’ eggs; pink-roasted lamb loin with braised shoulder, silky sweetbreads, broad beans and honeycomb; or pistachio crème brûlée with New Forest yoghurt. Flavours from further afield show equal finesse – nutty quinoa with crisp-skinned bass, seaweed butter and brown shrimps; or indulgent chocolate pavé with caramelised bananas and honey and thyme ice cream. This is serious cooking in smart surroundings, so it’s a boon to find warm, informal service. Wine merits an upgrade, but cocktails at the beautiful oak-topped bar easily compensate.