Café Deco is the brainchild of Anna Tobias. Previously the head chef at London’s iconic Rochelle Canteen, where she worked under Margot Henderson, Anna’s experience also spans time at The River Café and the Blueprint Café.
We think it’s safe to say then that Anna is a chef who knows how to write a winning menu. Here, at her first solo venture, she displays much of the same style she showcased at Rochelle Canteen. There’s still a love for produce and simple plating, with the celebration of clean flavours very much at the forefront. Much of the menu leans on Provençal style cookery.
The day’s offerings are written up on a blackboard and change routinely with what’s in season. There’s always high-quality charcuterie, generously sliced and plated, to start with or olives, retro egg mayonnaise or pork rillettes on toast. Come starters you might find dishes such as white onion soup or steamed mussels with leeks and cream. Much of what’s on offer if designed to be shared, so we’d suggest visiting with someone you know well. Mains might present a hearty pie served with salad or roasted poussin stuffed with wild garlic and crème fraiche and served with chips.
There’s no pretention to the food here, it’s simply plates of delicious things designed to be enjoyed with friends. Desserts fit the bill too with black forest gateau a consistent favourite, while cold rice pudding with custard hits just the right nostalgic notes.
Pared-back interiors continue the theme of simplicity with pastel tiled floors, a functional fridge counter at the front and a scattering of neat wooden tables and chairs. There’s little else by way of decoration but the neutrality works in a sort of contemporary cool way. Downstairs there’s a further dining space which can be reserved for private dining too.
Genial staff and an excellent wine list complete things for a central London destination that feels worlds away from the chaos outside.