Berenjak Soho

Inspired by the kebab joints of Tehran and spearheaded by former Gymkhana chef Kian Samyani, this no-bookings venture from the team behind Bao and Hoppers is a tiny corridor-like space, with stools at a counter overlooking the open kitchen, and tables in leatherette booths along a wall decorated with artfully distressed plaster. There’s also an atmospherically snug little dining area at the back with light and heat coming from a flaming tandoor and the coals of a mangal barbecue.

The idea is for two people to share half a dozen small plates, prettily served on silver saucers, before a couple of kebabs each. A dish of aubergine combined with onions cooked for so long they were almost caramelised was the real flavour revelation, scooped up with excellent bread from the clay tandoor; elsewhere grilled calf’s liver with onion salad added punch and a feta salad creamy freshness.

To follow, a kebab made with minced goat shoulder was terrifically succulent and beautifully seasoned, though the speciality destined for must-order status is the kabab torki – a dish that reinvents the post-pub guilty pleasure of ‘kebab and chips’ as a mixed meat shawarma atop a bed of fries drizzled with homemade chilli and garlic sauce. Order a side of authentically hot pickled chillies to cut through the richness.

Without drinks, you could eat very well at Berenjak for £30 a head, though that would be to miss out on the charms of the house-special ‘sharbats’ (fruit cordials), which can be spiked with vodka, gin and Tequila if you so desire. Wines (four in total) will bump up the bill, but bottled beer is closer to the cheap and very cheerful spirit of the place. 

Berenjak is named after the colourful, toasted rice snacks that are popular in Persia and is the passion project of owner Kian Samyani. Growing up in London as part of a Persian family, Samyani’s childhood was punctuated with the joys of shared mealtimes and wanted to celebrate and elevate this experience in his restaurant. Having worked for Jamie Oliver as well as at Benares in Mayfair and at The Bingham in Richmond, a Michelin star spot, Samyani’s CV is certainly impressive, and his experience is demonstrated in the standard of cooking at Berenjak.

While the restaurant is said to want to imitate the ‘rustic hole-in-the-wall eateries’ of Tehran, we suspect this has somewhat strayed from its roots with a beautiful foliage-filled dining room and a polished menu which makes the most of seasonal British produce. With the choice between a feast and the main food menu, guests are given the chance to try the chef’s recommendations or pick out their own favourites from the a la carte. Here you’ll find kababs that are carefully marinated and then cooked over coals for that signature chargrilled flavour, alongside small sharing-style mazeh plates. Combinations like feta, radishes, nuts and fresh herbs or Greek yogurt with cucumber, mint a green raisins act as a welcome refresher to the rich meat skewers. Feasts have to be taken by the whole table, but at £30 per person they represent great value for money and there’s a choice of mains to have so that there’s an element of tailoring possible. Expect a table heaving with all kinds of specials, accompanied by salad, rice and pickled chillies.

Berenjak also offers private dining, should you wish to book the restaurant for a special occasion, meeting or celebratory dinner. The semi-private garden room can seat up to 16 people, while the entire space can be booked out to accommodate 35 guests.