Meat, rice, bread, dips... The hallmarks of Persian cuisine are a shining battalion of sleep-inducing items that might not turn heads, but more often than not put smiles on faces. Berenjak's greatest success, then, is elevating this humble offering to such a degree that it forces people to sit up and take notice. Inspired by the kebab houses that line the streets of Tehran, this is the second highly-popular branch of this Persian restaurant in London.
Berenjak Borough is split across two floors, with guests able to ascend a spiral staircase to a chandelier-crowned Iranian-style dining room. The ground floor is a more relaxed affair centred around its open kitchen, as chefs craft clay-baked flatbreads and char hefty meat skewers in front of guests. It's packed to the rafters when we arrive, and we momentarily take stock of the opulent interiors as we’re shuffled to two elbow-grazing stools.
It’s busy, hot, loud, practically fizzing with energy – everything a kebab house should be. The meal begins with a basket of flatbreads that’s far too big for two regular-sized humans to manage, but still, we give it a good go. They’re a superior vehicle for two very good dips: a cooling cucumber, yoghurt and mint situation, and coal-cooked aubergines reduced to a sweet, velvety puree, then topped with crispy onions, walnuts and tahini. This first course is the highlight of the meal, and we could happily have kept tearing and dipping until full satiety. An ounce of room was left for two bulbous kebabs - one chicken, one lamb - served with fluffy rice and a chopped salad, which again was hefty in portion size and a grand example of how good meat and rice can be, although slightly over-seasoned if we’re being picky. A jewelled negroni made with pomegranate gin was tasty, if slightly watered down.
The available set menu comes at £38 per person, which is a little steep, although you leave incredibly well fed. Besides, no one goes to Berenjak to nibble. You go to feast.