‘I’ve been coming here for over 35 years, so it must be good’, remarked a long-time devotee of this enduring little Francophile restaurant and wine bar next to St Mary-le-Bow – sit at one of the buzzy alfresco tables and you could almost be in Lyon or Bordeaux. Alternatively, head indoors and make a beeline for the plush dining room or the unfussy panelled bar. Either way, the food keeps it straight and true, sending out gravadlax with dill dressing before char-grilled Scottish rib-eye steak with fat triple-cooked chips and Béarnaise sauce, liver and bacon, or roast cod fillet with romano beans and salsa verde. Many dishes are available in two sizes, and there’s a simpler menu of sandwiches, sharing platters, ‘great’ sausages and suchlike at the bar. ‘Superb’ staff know how to charm, and the French-led wine list is refreshingly broad.