“Everything about this restaurant is enjoyment personified!” proclaims a fan of 1921 – a breezy new arrival in the heart of Bury St Edmunds. The Grade II-listed building was formerly home to Graze, but following a complete makeover it now trades as 1921, with well-travelled chef Zack Deakins at the helm (ex-Restaurant Martin Wishart, Le Talbooth and The Bildeston Crown). Local artworks and shelves of books create a “wonderfully relaxed” feel in the dining room, while the kitchen applies a bright modern touch to carefully sourced British ingredients – from West Mersea crab (with pickled mooli, tempura squid and avocado) to saddle of Dedham Castle lamb (alongside baby artichokes, fennel and sweetbreads). Veggies might be tempted by the White Nancy goats’ cheese fondant with salt-baked celeriac, walnut and apple cake, while those with a sweet tooth should consider the strawberry soup with lavender pannacotta, meringue and basil. Prices are very “competitive”, there are some “compelling choices” on the wine list, and staff “give 100 per cent as soon as you walk through the door”. One to watch, we reckon.