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'When I was growing up, food wasn’t just for sustenance - you had special dishes for special occasions. For example, there are things you only eat at a naming ceremony, or at a funeral. We associate different foods with different events, so those things are important together. Food has always been a major part of my life.'
Growing up in Kaduna in northern Nigeria, Adejoké 'Joké' Bakare found herself at the intersection of a trio of different cuisines. Born to a Yoruba mother and an Igbo father, and growing up in Hausa territory, her culinary influences were vast even from a young age. She has fond memories of watching her grandmother fry plantain and cooking other Nigerian street foods. 'I’ve always been curious about what was being cooked and what was happening.'
Her journey as a chef started through familial responsibility more than anything else - as the oldest of her siblings, it was her duty to take over the cooking when she reached a certain age. She learned to cook via her family, by observation and by rote. Cooking was never a chore for Joké though - learning new things only stoked the fires of her passion and she has always taken great joy in the act of feeding people.
Joké moved to the UK to study Microbiology at university, but her study never became her passion. Instead, she continued to host big dinner parties at home, inviting friends over and laying on huge West African meals. Encouraged by her friends, Joké explored a career in food through supper clubs and street food, but in her heart she always dreamed of having her own restaurant. Her opportunity came when she entered Brixton Village's 'Brixton Kitchen' competition, where the victor would win a six month residency at a site in Brixton Village. Joké sailed through the competition, impressing the judges with her cooking and winning outright. Thus, Chishuru was born, as a pop-up in Brixton Village.
Quickly Joké's reputation grew as chefs, critics and diners made the journey to south London to try her food. Despite her humble background and lack of experience, her fierce determination and obvious talent shone through. Chishuru established itself permanently, then moved to a new location in Fitzrovia in 2023. Just a few months later, Joké received a Michelin star, becoming the first black woman to ever win the award in the UK.