Over the years this address has had its ups and down, but since it was taken over by the people behind Fishers Bistro next door, the food has gone up a notch in terms of quality and consistency. The kitchen has always had a liking for stoically Gallic flavours, but the Fishers connection has added an extra dimension in the seafood department. Dishes such as queen scallops with rosemary and anchovy butter, monkfish cheeks with curried parsnips and pickled carrots, or sea bass with chorizo, butter beans and black-olive tapenade now share the bill with goats’ cheese ravioli, chicken roulade, steaks and venison casserole with garlic mash. Atmospheric and ancient, this crimson-walled waterside hangout is also a resolutely untarnished drinking den – even if you happen to miss the regular live folk and jazz sessions.