The McCoy brothers are now into their fourth decade as custodians of this famously eccentric, one-off bistro-with-rooms, where big helpings of hearty eclectic fare are the order of the day. On offer might be a hefty starter of French black pudding & onion pissaladière, bowls of moules marinière or seafood pancake with thermidor sauce, followed by equally generous fillet of local venison with baby winter vegetables, venison faggot, celeriac & grand veneur sauce or rump of veal with oxtail, morels, cavolo nero & thyme mousseline. Fish specials change daily (steamed halibut with clam linguine, caviar & Champagne sauce, say), while desserts might herald chestnut parfait with caramel bavarois & maple dressing or classic ‘Louis XV’ served with almond ice cream. Prices are far from cheap, but the whole experience is reckoned to be good value.