Enoteca da Luca St Paul's

When done well, dinner in a charming little Italian bistro is one of life’s great joys. Step in Enoteca da Luca - a cosy trio of restaurants that has long provided City dwellers with a backdrop for long, unhurried lunches. It's the sort of place you stumble upon almost by accident and then spend years recommending to anyone who'll listen, and for good reason. This hidden gem is brimming with heart, its kitchen confidently slinging out the classics, all wrapped up with seamless, warmly attentive service.

From the moment we walk in, the rustic wine bar aesthetic sets the tone. It’s homely and utterly charming, all exposed brick, well-worn wood furnishings, and a gallery of black-and-white portraits and vintage posters - deliberately mismatched but somehow cohesive. Shelves groan under an impressive collection of wine bottles, hinting to the extensive Italian portfolio waiting behind the bar. The room itself splits neatly in two: one side anchored by a buzzy open bar and tightly packed tables, the other lined with dark teal leather banquettes that carve out semi-private spaces perfectly suited to cosying up over small plates and a bottle of something good.

We settle in with a glass of sparkling, our attention quickly grabbed by a plate of braised oxtail croquettes. The meat inside is shredded, fatty and deeply savoury, encased in a crisp golden coating, and we devour each one, dunking them into a tomato-based sauce that provides a simple, well-seasoned accompaniment. Sea bream carpaccio follows, bright and zesty, the delicate fish lifted by candied orange rind, roasted almonds and a scattering of chives. It’s a strong opening.

Pasta takes things to the next level. Buttery, garlic-slicked strands of tagliolini are tangled through with generous chunks of white crab and chilli, delivering several completely indulgent bites. Next comes slow-cooked duck breast, its pink layers cooked to perfection, a ribbon of rendered fat adding to the richness. It sits in a jus loaded with of black garlic and coffee, bringer darker, more savoury notes, whilst sweet red grapes cut through with a welcome burst of acidity.

Enoteca da Luca isn't trying to be anything other than what it is. And what it is, is very, very good.

Looking for a taste of Italy in London? Enoteca da Luca prides itself on offering an authentic Italian experience across its three locations: Devonshire Square, Guildhall and St Pauls. The restaurant's founders describe its concept as ‘piccolo e bello’ meaning small and beautiful, with a vibe that feels cosy, atmospheric and not too contrived. 

The St Pauls branch benefits from a perfect location, close to the tube station and even with views of the famous cathedral. Inside, it has a rustic feel with exposed brickwork, a small bar and plenty of nooks and crannies - just the right place for a glass of wine and some small plates. 

Speaking of food, the restaurant's menu is packed with both classic Italian dishes and some more modern takes, too. First up, why not start with a few snacks or sharing plates? For something light, try the burrata-filled pastries with anchovy and garlic dip or deep-fried sage and borage leaves with tomato dip. There's crispy pork belly and mostarda di frutta, alongside smoked swordfish with taggiasche olives, sundry tomatoes and capers, or artisan Italian cheeses with homemade pear and chilli jam for smaller plates.

For main courses, the specials board is host to lots of delicious-sounding dishes like slow-cooked duck breast with rainbow chard, plums and Mirto sauce, or veal escalope, Parma ham, sage and white wine. As for pasta, we like the sound of the slow cooked lamb ragu with artichokes and pecorino, or Carnaroli risotto with Delica pumpkin puree and Gorgonzola cream.

You'll need a glass of Italian wine to go alongside your meal and the team at Enoteca da Luca are experts at selecting just that. The wine menu is split into Italian Reds and Italian Whites, with some 'others' for those who might want them. There's also a premium sparkling for special occasions and your server will be more than happy to help you decide.