Famous for Yu & You in Blackburn (lauded by Gordon Ramsay on TV), brothers Victor and Vinny Yu have brought their “winning formula” to Alderley Edge with this glamorous conversion of the town’s old Panacea nightclub. Now a sleek restaurant/cocktail bar with a pleasing fusion of traditional and contemporary design, its take on Chinese cuisine features lots of telling contemporary twists: Victor’s deconstructed crispy aromatic duck, for example, consists of thinly sliced breast poached in stock, 24-hour marinated confit leg, and crispy duck skin, all served separately with pancakes, yuzu-marinated cucumber, deep-fried vermicelli and spring onions. This is one of the few provincial Chinese restaurants serving Wagyu beef (wok-seared with sweet soy and lime), while the menu also encompasses everything from honey-coated spicy chicken wrapped in bamboo leaves to roast black cod with miso and Champagne (shades of Hakkasan) or slow-cooked pork belly with fruity kin-do sauce. It’s not cheap, but given its innovative cooking, elegant surroundings and attentive service, Yu feels like good value to us. As ever, “you get what you pay for”.