From the outside Umu is discreet and unassuming with a door that blends with the walls to create a concealed entrance. Inside it’s moody and brooding with dark decor that creates an amphitheatre around the stage set for the sushi chefs working at the centre under warm spotlights.
They never seem to let their concentration break, and their intense craftsmanship seems fitting with a setting that feels fairly serious; stoically committed to the art of Japanese cookery.
Fascinatingly the dining room is filled with customers who are greeted as regulars by the professional and slightly reserved staff - those rare beings with W1 postcodes and pockets deep enough not to flinch at the £250 kaiseki menu.
This is one for the purists, a menu carved out of the most luxurious ingredients for diners with a passion for authentic fare. The first few plates are primarily raw Umu’s speciality, and include huge whelks still briney from the sea and langoustine bodies, fat and sweet. Unless you’re passionate about sashimi, it feels a lot to get through with more rounds of white fish and tuna to follow, but in all fairness it’s what the majority of guests are here for.
By the time a pretty little dish of steamed scallops and asparagus tempura arrived a craving for something warm had set in, a call subsequently answered by a hot pot. Paper thin wagyu slices were presented ready to be dunked in an umami-rich broth and were quickly followed by steaming pea-dotted rice and crispy crab legs.
This isn’t somewhere for those who like gutsy flavours. The hot pot was as robust as it got, with every course delicately balanced to give reverence to the careful choice of ingredients; from the freshest fish to the high end wine list.
If, instead, you find the craft of specialism fascinating, bagging a table at Umu allows a glimpse behind the curtain at some of London’s most talented sushi chefs.