Saved from redevelopment and now part of the dependable Geronimo Inns stable, this monumental edifice has benefited from a bright makeover and boasts a smart beer garden out front. Inside, natural wood, neutral colours and splashes of floral fabrics create a comfortable welcome. Food has gastropub ambitions, with decent bar bites including warm pork-neck sausage rolls in proper flaky pastry, baked Camembert with sourdough soldiers, and creamy grilled-cheese sandwiches. Pub staples such as cod and chips or generous burgers also hit the mark, alongside fancier dishes of Cornish fish stew or crispy pig cheek with mushroom sauce. Behind the bar you’ll find Sharp’s Doom Bar, Truman’s and bottled craft brews, while a varied wine list includes organic Rioja and trendy Albariño. The Traf also calls to Tooting’s new influx of young professionals and families with activities that range from rugby screenings and Sunday roasts to pub quizzes and baby yoga.