This boozy Indian diner is the work of ex-Benares executive chef Sameer Taneja, cleverly offering quick bites (‘#halfplates’) and strong drinks to time-poor Theatreland goers. The open-plan room is split between benches, bar seats and more intimate corners with banquettes, furnished in rattan, light wood and bright colours. Talli (‘T-uh-li’) translates as ‘tipsy’ in Hindi and you’ll acclimatise swiftly: every diner is welcomed with a miniature Masala Punch cocktail, while the 16-strong cocktail list is organised into India’s regions. Our East Indian Paan-Aam mixed Tequila, Betel leaf and raw mango purée, while a Southern Baba Budan blends aged rum with coffee and bitters. Cocktails are strong and adequate, but the real draw on our visit was kale chaat, a crisp and creamy melding of lightly fried kale, potato, pomegranate and yogurt. Another highlight was light and soft-fleshed sea bass, wrapped in a banana leaf and baked with rice, whereas dishes such as a pappy tandoori lamb chop were of questionable quality. A heritage black carrot and peanut brittle dessert was a delicious balance of sticky and sweet, or finish with a masala chai. A short international wine list as affordable as everything else, while well-drilled staff are always on hand. The words ‘rollout-ready’ spring to mind and if those patchy dishes Talli-go, we wouldn’t bet against more Talli-Joe.